Pleasingly set back from a main road or even a minor one, Timbre Virtudes blends in seamlessly with Porto’s largely residential Miragaia district, best known for its colourful housing, hanging laundry, its cobbled streets and its proximity to the dramatic Douro River. Dating back to the 16th Century, the hotel’s 71-room expanse is constructed around the dwellings of three different aristocratic families who are believed to have been involved in the burgeoning maritime industry of the time. The building’s aristocratic origins are illustrated by a 17th-century coat of arms, displayed both above the entrance and adopted as the hotel’s brand signature, found variously on stationery, towels, and menus alike. 

If the building’s exterior is dominated by original but pristine granite brickwork, the interior follows suit, providing the reception, bar area and restaurant with a cavernous elegance compounded by dark flooring, proscenium arches and burgundy pillars and ceilings. Stylishly mixing contemporary with historic, the space exudes what the hotel staff like to call ‘silent luxury’. It’s certainly dramatic and, in its own way, quite masculine too, brooding and atmospheric but paradoxically calming and gentle.  

The Alfândega grand occupies a sizeable proportion of the top floor and stretches to an impressive 70 square metres. Homely and welcoming, walls are pistachio, floors are walnut and orange highlights from pillows and artwork inject the suite with energetic bursts. Compartmentalised into three sections, all with closing doors, the uncluttered bedroom sits furthest on the left as you enter. The bed is king-size, and the room has its own balcony, which is especially useful for catching the sun’s end-of-day rays. The living room has a comfy sofa, a TV, a minibar, a round dining table as well as its own balcony which, much like the bedroom one, offers beguiling and practically timeless views over terracotta roofs towards the river on one side and colourful residential properties on the other.

If the spacious bathroom is the suite’s highlight with its slick marble flooring, its his and hers basins, its faux steamed up mirrors and its Bulgari soaps, as charming as the shower is, it’s the jacuzzi which is the jewel in the suite’s crown. Sizeable in its roundness, with its own underwater lighting and powerful jets, it’s surely worth taking an evening off and staying in to luxuriate in this opulent monster of self-pampering. The Alfândega is the only space in the hotel which has a jacuzzi, but in-room massages are available for all. 

The hotel’s chef Tiago Bonito held one Michelin star throughout his previous tenure at Largo do Paço in Amarante. Of his work, he says “My food is sea and fire. It’s smoke, eucalyptus, pine and vines. Flavours that I know and put into my dishes, creating experiences that appeal to all the senses.” Través restaurant’s granite walls and high ceilings make for dramatic dining and our sommelier cum waiter, the affable and endearing Rui, expertly curates the evening for us. Salmon in crispy tartelettes serve as a satisfying amuse bouche and an orange infused garlic and thyme butter renders the homemade bread irresistible.

If starters are both colourful, the Foie gras visually reminds one of a desert with its beige aesthetic offset by bright raspberries, green leaves and almost yellow croutons. Its soft texture is also dessert-like and the figs add a sweetness to the silkiness. The Boiled Octopus is cut into thick finger-sized chunks with green basil and coriander sauce and sliced carrots, lifting presentation. 

The star of the show has to be the Tiger Shrimp with brothy rice for two. Rui serves from a large Le Creuset type black casserole dish at the side of the table and sprinkles with a generous helping of black pepper. Essentially, it’s a local version of the bouillabaisse and years ago, it would have been the kind of comfort food mothers or wives would serve their men after a hard day’s fishing on the nearby Atlantic.

Portions are generous but we still have two helpings each, all ably washed down by Lisbon’s Quinta Do Gradil Chardonnay. A Meringue served with Greek Yoghurt ice cream is surprisingly fluffy and a gin and tonic jus offsets the slightly sweeter strawberry element. 

It’s impossible not to pass the bar on the way back to any of the rooms, situated as it is, directly opposite the elevator. Rui plied us with what we thought was a final tipple for the night, a Quinta Da Romaneira Tawny port, but the hotel’s resident mixologist, Bruno, has other ideas. How can we disappoint him? We’re not quite sure what to order so he offers to make each of us an off-piste, off the cuff, bespoke cocktail. After a brief question and answer session, he rushes off to get busy behind the bar. I end up with an earthy white truffle flavoured whiskey sour and my friend an espresso martini inspired whisky sour with prickly pear cactus, honey and egg white ingredients. The man is a wizard, the drinks gentle but intoxicating; someone please give him a prize!

It’s not long before we’re back at breakfast, last sitting for which finishes at a luxurious 11am. There’s a table in the main space which serves healthier fare such as chia seed puddings, yoghurt, granola, dripping honeycomb and beyond the proscenium arch, a larger spread which covers fried breakfast, pastries, breads, fish, cheese and meats. Golden, red and occasionally black fishtail tiles provide the space with an inviting and magical glow and for anyone who’s not in a hurry, a glass or two of the local sparkling wine is a must, as is Portugal’s national snack, a Pastel de nata. I try it all but my favourite has to be the two different types of granola which have both white and milk chocolate buttons in it.

In the summer Timbre Virtudes’ rooftop turns into one of the city’s coolest bars. In February, the bar is closed but Duran Duran’s Hungry Like The Wolf bursts over the speakers, providing the space with a suitable exoticism. Its view over the Miragaia district, the Douro river, the Ponte da Arrábida is a sight for sore eyes and behind it, almost within touching distance, is an architecturally out of kilter but fascinating brutalist school with a large concrete playground and tall concrete grey walls. The sun is out, and the always-friendly staff are more than happy to bring food or alcohol to guests who want to take advantage of this spectacular location, one of the many reasons this hotel is a must-visit when in Porto.  

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Village by Boa has two entrances right next to each other. Both understated, one looks like a shop front and the other a more likely apartment block. The shop also works as a low-key reception but offers a bunch of carefully curated design-conscious products, all of which begs to find an appreciative home. Matcha chocolate, stuffed squid in ink, and blue gin rub exotic and pleasing shoulders with truffle polenta, brightly coloured china sardine plates and Japanese malt whiskey. It’s hard not to browse and be slightly hypnotised by all the pretty packaging and design. 

Check-in is quick, and at the end we’re slipped six digits handwritten on paper. It’s hush-hush, turn your eye, spy stuff, it turns out, Village by Boa doesn’t do physical keys so this is your front door and apartment door code. Memorise if you can, take a photo as insurance, lose at your peril. 

Renovation started in 2020, and its concept was to keep original features but give the premises a contemporary and natural twist. Certainly, the exposed concrete in the main building achieves this, reminding us less of brutalism and, especially with cord-woven chairs and what could be milkmaid stalls, more of a Nordic slickness. On the ground floor, a compact gym offers plenty of exercise options, including weights, rowing and cycling machines.

The apartment continues the natural theme and mixes warmer, brighter oatmeal tones in upholstery and bed linen with heavier, darker chocolate ones in the tables and chairs. The marble-clad bathroom stands immediately on the left upon entry. With two different types of shower heads to choose from, body wash, shampoo and conditioner come from the Danish Meraki brand. Down the corridor is the main living space. Also on the left, a wire glass divider blocks off the cosy bedroom, which has more than ample wardrobe hanging space and a queen-size bed with a generous handful of fluffy pillows.  

Given Village by Boa lacks a restaurant, the kitchen is sizeable and slick; the grey and white marble worktop and backsplash look expensive and fit neatly amongst the array of pistachio cupboards. The kitchen comes with all things one would expect to find at home, including a (New York Times ‘no recipe recipe’) cookbook for those not wanting to seek inspiration from local cuisine and a pink popcorn maker should guests prefer to relax in front of the TV. If you’ve forgotten your popcorn, no worries, a welcome basket includes a packet along with local red wine, beer and dark chocolate. Two inverted lobster basket lampshades dominate the living room/kitchen space, which has its own balcony. This outdoor area is narrow but looks over some of Porto and the rest of the Boa village, which is where the Aparthotel’s history is most evident. 

In the 19th century, Bairro do Silva was a working-class neighbourhood, and the houses were built in tight rows. The inhabitants formed microcosmic communities, lived as villagers and, pretty much, as family. With outsized pots, flourishes of ferns and fish scale tiling, this area now forms an idyllic escape from the city, with the renovation offering a sense of gentle introspection. If you’re not staying in this part of the Aparthotel, it’s well worth a casual visit, especially when the sun’s shining, and the city’s bustle gently fills out the background. 

If you’ve booked breakfast with your bed, Simpli Coffee looks onto the village but isn’t accessible from it. To the front of the building’s immediate left, it’s a five-step walk. Its interior retains the naturalistic Nordic sensibility with magnolia-toned walls, a total of ten different chair types, some flora and salvaged wood-based art. Contemporary R&B plays from the Marshall amp radio and guests are invited to select breakfast by filling out a red form. Choose one each from a First Bite, a Morning Main and a Finishing Touch. 

The Yoghurt parfait with fruit and granola was light and fresh as were the smashed peas on sourdough toast and the Chickpeas, tomato and spinach mix, also on sourdough. Coffee comes with its own cream based art, once in the shape of a happy snail, another a fern. Each cup is also delivered with what look like Top Trump cards, which explain the origins and name of the coffee bean used. Together, it all makes a solid basis for which to explore the surrounding historical area.

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With more to come in the next year, Torel Saboaria is the fourth and newest property in the luxury boutique chain’s Porto collection. The interior design of each is influenced by its specific building’s history, and if you didn’t know ‘saboaria’ means ‘soap factory’ in Portuguese, the first step into this historic space gives the game away. Part functional shop with an array of different designer soaps, part historical tribute with scales, weights and a cabinet full of soapy curiosities, it could equally serve as a reception, but that’s a few steps deeper inside. With a similar cabinet of historic curiosities shining from behind, not only is the reception Torel Saboaria’s physical centre, but it’s also its heartbeat, where the super-friendly staff converge, commingle and chat enthusiastically to guests as if they’re old friends. Leading outside to the spa and pool area, the space also segues into the restaurant and bar and practically props up the lift to the 28 rooms above. 

The suite is a beguiling paradox of calm drama. All heavy blush walls with softer wooden flooring, tables and chairs, nature’s aesthetic dominates. The open plan space is compartmentalised with minimal fuss so that the king-size bed faces the street but away from the living area. Here, a large coffee table and sofa stretch opposite a pistachio bordered sink/cooker. In the closest corner fits a small round dining table on which a decanter full of port has the habit of magically refilling itself before sunset. Black and white checked floor tiles snazz up the bathroom, and the generously sized walk-in shower offers British Racing Green tiles for a more traditional elegance. Shampoo, conditioner and shower gel are all provided by Torel boutiques and, maybe one day it will be made on premises. Slashes and slabs of contemporary art unify the room. It might not be immediately apparent, but look closer, and one of the largest pieces isn’t made of vertical brickage but a bunch of soap bars.

Once you’ve spotted the soap bar art, you’ll notice it decorating corridors and the restaurant. Luffa has an altogether lighter, breezier aesthetic, so light in fact that the original limestone walls practically sparkle and remind one of a Flintstones new build. Tables shine with bright flecked marble whilst chair backs offer darker brown hues which match the wooden floor and, on one side, diners can sink into poolside cabana-type sofas and cushions. Continuing the soap factory inspiration, lights are covered in linen and wooden frames border clothes, which might have been historically washed in the nearby Douro River.

Inspired as much by the names as the ingredients, we kick off dinner with a couple of signature cocktails. ‘Greenz ‘r’ Good’ contains less vegetable goodness than the title implies, but this refreshing gin-based tipple made mainly of pear, apple and celery juice, still tastes like drinking a tasty salad. ‘Wild Card’ might well describe the restaurant’s entire ethos with its sense of familiarity but playful adventure. Part of the whisky sour family, scotch is infused with pomegranate, peach vinegar and cocoa for a refreshing and tangy experience. 

The menu is sharing and our sommelier/waitress for the night, Rita, suggests three to four dishes before dessert. With the addition of sourdough and a fantastic Prawn rissol, however, the portions are suitably generous that three would more than suffice. Sitting somewhere between pitta bread and pizza, the choice of flatbread with one of three different toppings is a must.  We eschew the apple and the chorizo for the Algarve rose prawns, which are of unusual, delicate and supple texture. Raw but not cooked, the prawns are actually cured with salt and sugar before lemon juice is added. A handful of coriander leaves decorates this moreish dish, in which chayote is also present for crunch and freshness.

The Tuna is cut into raw chunks and hidden from sight under a decoration of sweet kohlrabi ribbons. The dish swims in a fermented tomato and olive oil sauce peppered with sesame seed drops. Refreshing and light, it’s not as unexpected as the steak tartare, the presentation of which errs away from the more traditional French method. Here, egg yolk sits under the finely chopped steak, which is also cured for a noticeably sweet taste. Buckwheat proliferates for unexpected cereal puff crunchiness and slices of toasted homemade brioche curve around the plate to dip into this delicious mess of silkiness.   

Rita advises expertly on the wine, the menu for which includes red, white, orange and green. The orange and green seem more exotic than the red and white and the green smoother than the orange. We opt for a Desvirttuado from Phulia Wines, a winery initiated by a couple of students in Coimbra who decided to try their hand at restoring abandoned vineyards in the Lima Valley. It works well with the Monkfish which again defies expectation, this time with a spicy yellow lemongrass soup, kimchi powder and green kefir lime extract. Even more surprises; underneath it all, pasta shells curl. 

We share a Chocolate, banana merengue dessert which melds together for a gooey end of meal delight. Music throughout has been 60s/70s American funk and soul for an upbeat mixture of romantic yearning with Charles Bradley, especially, receiving more than his fair share of the rotation. In the mosaic tiled lift we notice a flyer for Luffa which perfectly sums up the experience as a mixture of ‘comfort, technique and a touch of adventure.’  

Breakfast is more traditional but doesn’t suffer because of this. Music remains the same, as does waitress service. No buffet here; just a small but enticing menu.  Both the Bacon, poached egg and hollandaise sauce croissant and the Smoked salmon labneh and pickles on toast offer light but wholesome ways to start the day and the yoghurt with chocolate granola and blueberries, with its generous chunks of dark chocolate, quickly becomes a favourite. Daylight bounces through the sprightly room for all-around positive vibes. 

Inspired, surely, by Japanese rock gardens, two parts in the back of the hotel are covered with clean, small grey and white stones while shrubs and flowers prettify this calming oasis in an urban context. Surrounded by city architecture, the only building herein is the former soap factory warehouse, turned now, into a Spa which offers everything from Facials to Body Treatments to Signature Massages.

There’s also a Turkish Bath (steam room) in the spa and in the garden, a dainty fresh air pool and jacuzzi, both of which are hidden from cursory inspection by more greenery. In the last week of February, the pool is unheated and measures a cool 13 degrees, so it works perfectly as a plunge pool for the steam room before warming up again in the jacuzzi.  The pool is open from 8 am to 8 pm, but if you ask the staff nicely, they might let you visit earlier or later. They also might bring you a glass of sparkling wine to make your special stay in this special hotel even more special. 

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Somewhat counter-intuitive in its visual imagery, a blood red and gold Samurai costume cum statuette stands guard at the front door, practically pats down entering diners with its fighting spirit. To its right, the main space is grandiloquent; all super high ceilings and pillars to match. With zig-zag tiled flooring, curved leather chairs, brass handrails and a repetitive series of pendant lights which look like secondary planets orbiting a primary one, Yakuza feels very much like a French art deco spot. Or a New York brasserie imitating a French art deco spot. At the restaurant’s far end a gaudy, bronze sculpture titillates with topless men and women and what might be Neptune brandishing a trident. Next to it stands a DJ desk but tonight, it not quite being the weekend, a sultry playlist unfolds instead. Opposite the entrance, a bright backlit bar shines, but, upon closer inspection, it’s actually a sushi counter. Wearing white headbands (kamikaze bands!?) and white sushi tops, three chefs beaver away in front of samurai swords, bonsai trees and bottles of sake. 

The menu is extensive so we order cocktails to help us on our way. I like the Yakuza Cocktails which include a Shogun, Margarita and Mojito twists but opt for a Japanese Whiskey Sour which includes Nikka whisky from the barrel and yuzu and is topped by a slice of desiccated lime and egg yolk froth. My friend goes for a more straightforward Belsazar Vermouth Red on the rocks. While we nibble on a surefire dish of salted edamame, we return to the menu which includes ‘Novidades Yakuza’, ‘Entradas’ and ‘Especias Yakuza’, and that’s before the ‘MakiSushi’, the ‘Sushi e Sahimi’ the ‘Combinados’ and the ‘Da Cozinha’. Lighting is atmospheric if not dusky; I have to use the light on my phone, and my friend has forgotten his glasses. The cocktails are starting to kick in, so we ask our waiter, Jorge, if he can help out. He doesn’t falter and offers up a mixture of his favourites with the suggestion of leaving the rest to the chef, omakase style. Impressively, he grates an actual wasabi vegetable in front of us for a subtler, less pungent taste than the more common paste. 

Before hitting the sushi, we share a couple of excellent fish and guacamole crispy tacos served with thin strips of seaweed and a sumptuous Yellowtail carpaccio drizzled in truffle ponzu. Our waitress, Lenor, brings us cold Soto Sake. ‘Soto’ means ‘outside’ in Japanese. It’s dry, delicate and smooth, has elegant floral aromas and aims to recreate the balance between the elements. We’re happily agreeing it achieves its goal when an Instagram moment is thrust upon us. A large bowl glistens with ice shavings and a solid block of ice. Ferns and flowers prettify the sashimi offering of salmon, seabass, sea bream and tuna. From a green fish shaped jug, Jorge pours what seems like a pint of dry ice, which, in spite of a lack of breeze, twists and twirls with Gothic dexterity. The sashimi, much like what came before and comes after is first grade melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

A practical tsunami of sushi follows, much of which we’re instructed not to dip into soy sauce or add wasabi to. All is served on a dazzling and dramatic display of ceramic dishes and plates. Roast turbot is chargrilled and meaty but delicate. Eel is also cooked and comes with a bone marrow sauce topped with caviar. Salmon is wrapped in a betel leaf. Turbot is served with lime and ginger and caramelised onion for a crunchy and surprisingly sweet finish. It’s not all fish, though; Wagyu comes rare but warm, is super tender and dressed with granules of salt and a spot of kizami wasabi.

Gabriel, our barman, comes over and offers us another cocktail. We discuss sake ones but in the end take his lead for a Porto version of The Caprice. It seems there’s whiskey as well as Graham’s Tawny and some ruby colouring (Campari!?). It goes down a treat and is not dissimilar to a sweeter Negroni, helps us with the luxury of three gunkuns each, none of them wrapped with anything so pedestrian as seaweed. Scallops are wrapped in tuna and come with a minimum of rice. Foie gras is also wrapped in tuna and topped with stringy leek shavings. Lenor asks if we have room for one more. We probably don’t but of course say we do as her manner of question, her proud smile suggests the chef has left the best till last. Is it the best? Probably. Unforgettable? Absolutely. The height of decadence? Most certainly. Wagyu beef gunken with foie gras and a sprinkling of caramelised onion has to be the sushi to end all sushis. 

We share a Bolo de Banana e Matcha, which is a banana cake with coconut ice cream. Sprinkled with matcha and chocolate caramel soil, Lenor suggests there almost might be a ‘surprise.’ We’re not sure what she’s talking about until we start eating and something starts popping. Literally. It was called Space Dust in my time, a popping candy which now seems to be known as Cosmic Dust. Lenor kindly writes down the names of some more bars to explore but, frankly, nothing’s going to come close to the extravagant and mouth-watering evening we’ve already had.

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A large glowing sign with the restaurant’s name guides guests down a narrow side alley where a multitude of strategically placed lanterns achieve a pin-prick aesthetic and suggest drama lurks nearby. Part of the Torel Palace Porto, guests avoid the hotel’s formal entrance but, after the alley, pass by a compact and glowing azure hotel pool and a few drinks tables above which two chandeliers hang. An unassuming doorway on the left opens into the monochromatic Blind, which, chequered floor aside, is more black than white. The sight of a horseshoe bar around which no chairs are placed, no punters stand and no drinks are served is surreal, and what appears to be a contemporary art series hanging from the walls offers, in fact, a spelling of ‘sensation’ in Braille. 

There’s no messing around, and we quickly learn from Wagner that not only is he a wine sommelier but a water sommelier and, yes, he has a water menu to prove it. Pellegrini, Evian and Fiji represent more recognisable brands but the choice extends from Australia to Iceland to Scandinavia and much of Europe. We opt for Finland’s still Vellamo, which is ‘like a misty morning cloud by the sea, just before the rainfall’ and Germany’s  sparkling AQA Finelli from the Harderheck Spring – ‘high quality, pure taste and natural composition.’

Diners are asked if they have any allergies but are offered no other choice beyond a ten or twelve course tasting menu. And actually, courses aren’t ‘courses’ or ‘dishes’ or defined by ‘starters’ or ‘mains’ or ‘desserts’ but are all ‘moments’. And the ‘moments’ have names which are sometimes poetic and sometimes humorous. And half the time diners are encouraged to guess the ingredients of each ‘moment’ which leads for plenty of back and forth with our waiter César who, much like Wagner, is a non-stop source of cheery information. 

Three small moments, which make up ‘3 is Never Enough’ arrive simultaneously. The Amberjack tartlet with oscietra caviar is my favourite; it’s multicoloured, crispy and bursts with the caviar’s viscosity. The McBlind chickpea burger with curry mayo seems more of a gimmick than an haute cuisine offering but the specially designed paper and its unwrapping achieves a curiously joyous and childlike frisson. Three balls of liquid cheese from Portugal’s highest mountain are served in a deep and savoury mushroom broth whilst a hazelnut tincture is squeezed from a pipette at the table. A glass of Premier Cru ‘Natura’ champagne by chef Vitor Matos, no less, accompanies a small batch of 160 bottles which was harvested in 2016. The restaurant is down to its final three bottles, and we feel privileged. 

‘Candlelight’ is as it sounds. However, the candle isn’t made of wax but butter with garlic and specks of parsley. The wick burns, the hard butter melts. It’s served with sourdough full of pine nuts and is all so moreish that we go through two candles. ‘A Sin in a Spoon’ is a small bowl of foie gras decorated with star shaped granny smith apple, muscat gel and elderflower gel. Foie Gras errs more towards the soft than the solid so a spoon is definitely in order for a sloppy and extravagant mix. ‘A Clash of temperatures’ consists of raw Algarve prawns, more caviar, grapefruit and orange segments, all of which are covered in a warm leek foam at the table for an exercise in contrasts. 

At some point we notice a dry, red, inverted rose hanging above our table. What does it mean? Some kind of normative subversion, one assumes, which is definitely the case when César brings us not the next dish but two black blindfolds. Yes, we’re to fulfil the name of the restaurant by eating without vision and the evening suddenly becomes a mental exercise, a guessing game. What, actually, are we eating? César refuses to reveal, wants us to tell him. Hmmmm. Well…There’s definitely some mushrooms, not so obvious for their flavour, but their minuscule and slippery shape. And some fish for sure. My companion thinks it’s maybe monkfish. I think maybe prawns. Something in the back of my mind tells me a Michelin-starred chef wouldn’t be so lazy as to serve prawns twice in a row. I ignore my own advice and we opt for prawns. I’m right and I’m wrong; of course, a Michelin star restaurant wouldn’t serve two moments of prawns. We would never have guessed. Hardly knew the things existed: Sea snails! In a garlic and butter sauce with mushrooms! 

Wagner keeps the wine flowing thick and fast. We have Guri by Vinvevinu, we have Lacrau Garrafeira, we have Vinha Paz Reserva. We have a blind tasting session with the wine, too, where we fail miserably to identify what we’re drinking and then we have wine from a bottle which is never opened. Almost like a magic trick, this is made possible by a Coravin device, specifically invented to pour wine without removing the cork, so that the bottle doesn’t go off if you don’t fancy drinking it all. 

We devour ‘Sea Breeze’, which is a tender chunk of cod with plankton powder and seaweed. We devour ‘Feel the Sea’ which is red snapper with sea lettuce, and saffron-infused couscous. We devour ‘Meat Fell in the Ashes’, another one of my favourites. Not only is it the first meat dish, Wagyu, it’s also the closest the meal comes to having an identifiable ‘main’. Dehydrated mushrooms act out the titular ash role and crispy seaweed works with Swiss chard and rice for an all-around richer and heavier dish. Before we know it, three hours have whipped by, and we’re presented with ‘Red Passion’, a seriously colourful and happily bright dessert. With luscious red, Mae West lips, the concoction includes mascarpone (the lips), mini meringues, lychee gel, egg custard and ice cream and resembles a joyous cubist portrait or a child’s pic ’n’ mix presentation.

A final moment called ‘Adam and Eve’ ends the evening. Served on a picture frame and a printed painting, three petit fours make their own statement; food can transcend its functionality and also work as art. After a titillating and lively evening full of surprise and delight, technique and flavour, it’s a tough one to disagree with.

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Vila Foz

Part of the stunning Vila Foz Hotel and Spa boutique resort, this restaurant received its Michelin Star in 2022. Chef Arnaldo Azevedo is the creative genius behind the elegant eatery’s refined tasting menus, in which local fish reigns (although there is a fully vegetarian option too). Cooking is in Azevedo’s blood – he’s the son of a chef and began his career in the family restaurant, before deciding to train and work professionally in the gourmet sphere. The restaurant caters solely for evening meals and for those over 12 years old, retaining a serene and sophisticated ambience. The showstopper is the ‘Kitchen Seat’ at which two diners are served privately, with interaction from Arnaldo as he describes the inspiration and story behind each dish.

www.vilafozhotel.pt

Antiqvvm

Arguably the most romantic restaurant in the city, Antiqvvm has a formal and secluded garden terrace, with an Italian Renaissance feel and breathtaking views over the Douro River. The interior dining room is in a grand manor house, with original arches adding to the atmosphere. It received a star just over a year after opening its doors, wowing diners with elaborate a la carte and tasting menus from Chef Vitor Matos. Each course is artfully presented and provides a delectable experience of the finest local produce available. The location, service and of course food, is hard to beat, often leaving diners wondering why it hasn’t yet been awarded a second star.

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Pedro Lemos

This was the first of the three to get its star – back in 2014. Wine is a big part of the experience here, with paired selections recommended alongside the tasting menus. Dishes include the likes of kohlrabi, rose shrimp, bluefin tuna and beef, with a focus on seasonality and sustainability. Housed in a renovated stone house, Pedro Lemos is close to the mouth of the Douro. There are two dining areas, the indoor restaurant, whose walls are painted in a fashionable denim blue echoing the coastal vibe (a sculpted flock of birds appear on the walls and across the ceiling) and an outdoor terrace. Dinner and lunch is served Tuesday through to Saturday.

www.pedrolemos.net/en/

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Eat

Casario

Casario is the in-house restaurant of Gran Cruz House, whose name is inspired by the historic jumble of houses surrounding the hotel. The restaurant is led by chefs Chef Miguel Castro Silva and Chef José Guedes a partnership which has stemmed from their work together over several years at the restaurant De Castro Gaia at Espaço Porto Cruz. If you want to be guided by the chef their five-course tasting menu will take you on a journey using smaller portions from the a la carte menu. Food is expertly paired with wine from their portfolio of 60 Port and Douro wine offerings from Dalva, Porto Cruz and Quinta de Ventozelo.

www.grancruzhouse.pt/restaurant

Digby Restautant

Located in Hotel Avantgarde. The restaurant has collaborated with José Gordón’s El Capricho project, which produces some of the world’s finest meats; 30-day aged beef sirloin and working cow Chuleton is served at the table, with four optional fleur de sel seasonings and side dishes served inboxes. Desserts are crafted by confectioner Anabela Lemos and the bartenders mix avant-garde signature cocktails. Midweek, an Executive Lunch is offered, while Saturdays and Sundays have a diverse brunch from 12.30 pm to 3 pm. Like Casario, the venue has exceptional views over Porto and the Douro River.

www.torelavantgarde.com/en/bar-and-restaurant

Blind

A culinary experience designed to delight the senses, Blind is located in the Torel Palace Hotel and is an invitation for diners to place complete trust in the chefs. Created by Vitor Matos (read the interview here), Blind Emotion takes on a tasting menu format comprising of eight or ten ‘moments’ (courses) depending on how hungry you are served with perfectly paired wine. Raw and natural products are transformed into edible works of art to the backdrop of a moodily lit venue with chequered black and white floor and crisp white tablecloths. Expect your taste buds and other senses to be stimulated during a dining experience here – it is truly unique. The bar serves cocktails which play on the theme, entitled: Feel, Taste, Touch, Sound, Blindness and Sixth Sense.

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Read our guide to the best restaurants in Porto

Do

Mercado Bom Sucesso

In the unlikely event that the weather’s unkind, visitors can take shelter and indulge in some retail therapy in this bright-covered market. But this is more than simply a place to shop; it presents some of the history and evolution of the city, through its 1950s architecture and huge variety of stalls. The Mercado Bom Sucesso mirrors much of Porto’s culture, with live music and street theatre, food stalls, local crafts and produce. While there’s much to buy and eat here, you can enjoy an enrapturing few hours in the venue without spending a Euro, as it’s a feast of sights and sounds. 

www.mercadobomsucesso.pt

Take A Sightseeing Cruise Down The Douro River

You’ve explored the city on foot, now it’s time to see it from a different perspective — the water. The Douro River connects the centre with the coast, weaving through the Old Town and out to the surrounding countryside and beyond across the Spanish border. Choose a shorter, city-based cruise covering the city’s six bridges, or take a longer full-day trip into the outlying areas and Portugal’s wine country, adding in a meal and some wine tasting. If you’d prefer something a little different and adventurous, there are river sailing trips offered. Smaller private tours and scheduled public departures can be booked. 

Watch The Sunset From The Dom Luis I Bridge

This landmark bridge spans the 172-metre space between Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. The Dom Luis’ huge double-deck metal arch makes it a landmark on the horizon — it was once the longest of its kind in the world. As the sun begins to dip, take a stroll from Cais da Ribeira to the Sao Bento Station along Avenida de Dom Afonso Henriques. From here you can climb onto the bridge and cross on the pedestrian walkway from either the upper or lower levels. The views from here are epic, certainly the best in the city, making for a romantic moment as the sunsets.  

Visit Livraria Lello

Its English name is the Lello Bookstore, providing a significant clue into what is widely believed to be the most beautiful place to shop for literature in the world. First inaugurated in 1906, the building’s art deco, art nouveau, and gothic interiors are said to have served as a muse for JK Rowling’s Harry Potter world (the novelist lived in the city for a number of years). And its stained glass ceiling is a true wonder. Livraria Lello’s popularity means you may have to queue for a while to get in, or you can book onto a tour for priority entry. 

Visit the Porto Cultural District

Comprising seven museums, 12 restaurants, a host of shops, a temporary exhibition space, an events space and a wine school, the Porto Cultural District is a place of contemporary homage to the Portuguese region. Visitors can learn more about the winemaking process through an experience created for amateur and experienced wine enthusiasts alike, or book onto one of the Wine School’s frequent workshops and thematic tastings dedicated to the country’s various terroirs. Sessions vary between one and two hours, allowing those short on time to get a metaphorical and literal taste of Portugal’s national beverage, as well as room to explore the rest of the Porto Cultural District complex.

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Sleep

Torel Avantgarde

Torel Avantgarde is a beautiful hotel which is nestled on a hillside, away from the hustle and bustle of the vibrant Porto city centre (which is only 10-minutes’ walk away). Stunning views of the Douro River and the city can be enjoyed from almost every angle; from the outdoor pool and hot tub to the terrace restaurant ‘Tenro by Digby’, and not to forget the stylish front-facing rooms. But it’s not just the natural beauty that is a sight to behold here, the 49-room boutique hotel is known as the “artists’ hotel” with its design and concept inspired by the Avante-Garde era of the 1930’s and 1940’s. Each room and suite is dedicated to important historical-artistic global figures reflecting their individuality and creativity. The Frida Kahlo room, one of the most famous in the hotel, offers an incredible twin bathtub with views out to the city – check-in here and you won’t be disappointed! The hotel’s dining experience offers a contemporary twist on traditional Portuguese cuisine and presents guests with a relaxed yet stylish vibe. Unwind or rejuvenate with a treatment at the hotel’s Calla Wellness & Spa, where natural and organic products from Phyt’s and Oliófora are the order of the day.

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Gran Cruz House

Ultra-boutique hotel, Gran Cruz House, is set right beside the Douro River and is at the heart of the vibrant city of Porto. Dating back to the 17th century, the building which houses the beautiful hotel oozes with history with many original features have been retained and are complimented by a flawless contemporary design. The seven stylish guest bedrooms present their own individual design and character with each given their own Wine Port category along with a special work of art.  Casario is Gran Cruz House’s fine dining establishment, a cosy restaurant on the second floor with a riverside terrace. Guests can enjoy breakfast here along with a choice of tasting menus, a la carte menus, beautiful local wines and ports – a truly divine Portuguese gastronomy experience. This intimate hotel is one not to be missed. 

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Torel Palace Porto

The recently opened Torel Palace occupies a prime city-centre location in Porto with a fascinating history dating back to 1861.  The original palace, which is now home to the stunning hotel underwent significant restoration in 2020 and the grandeur of the building has been masterfully restored; from its grand winding staircase, ornate cornicing and beautiful library – every corner is filled with charm and character – which extends to the outdoor pool and restaurant too. Foodies will revel in the dining experience presented at the hotel’s restaurant, Blind, a tribute to Portuguese writer José Saramago. The 10-course tasting-menu is inspired by chef Vítor Matos’ childhood memories and will stimulate your taste-buds and your senses. With attentive service and the perfect level of privacy, the Torel Palace Porto truly is a haven of luxury in the heart of Porto. 

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Read our guide to the best hotels in Porto

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Was the hospitality sector always where you wanted to carve your career? 

Cooking has always been my dream and what makes me happy. This sector has always been my dream career.

Tell us more about the moment you decided to establish Blind and the journey so far. 

Blind’s project began to be designed in March 2019, and was born out of a need for freedom, and this has been the principle that keeps me alive in the project. Blind is the place where I am free to transform my wildest creations, without fear, where I put into practice the kitchen and the moments I want to reach the other in a raw way, without reservations of judgment. From here a whole concept was born and we grew in the offer, but I always try to see and interpret it this way.

And for those who have not yet visited how would you describe the concept and the vibe at Blind? 

It is the place that awakens the senses, in its purest form and without preconceived ideas, it is an appeal to freedom.

Your dishes present influences from traditional and modern techniques – please explain more about how you combine the two? 

I always feel between these two ways, at work and in life, we must never forget our origins, traditions and expressing that in the kitchen is very natural, on the other hand, the most advanced techniques always allow me to go further, keep me current, follow and exceed expectations, so it will always be difficult to dissociate myself from one of them.

Where do you find inspiration for new menus?

At Blind, in practically everything, our senses are something that inspires me by nature, the way we feel about everything, I can get inspiration from an ingredient, an event, a way of being, or simply a scent, it’s part of freedom that I defend in this concept.

You spend a lot of time in both Portugal and Switzerland. Have you observed any differences in the attitude towards food / dining experiences in each country? 

I was still very young when I had my experience in Switzerland, but the main difference I noticed is the way people look for gastronomic experiences, in Portugal we eat to feed ourselves much more than in Switzerland, it has to do with the appreciation that both peoples give to gastronomy.

And if yes how do you adapt to both? 

My work boils down to mitigating this difference, in that I am definitely Swiss.

And what are your predictions for any foodie trends in the coming years?

In my opinion, we are moving more and more towards rich and flavourful kitchens, this is where we are all heading, appearance is and will always be important, but taste is the future of the kitchen.

Are there any exciting plans in the pipeline for you as a team and/or Blind? 

Always, the ambitions of this project are big and I have big plans for it in the future, even because this work has just started and we have a lot to grow and to show.

Luxury is an entirely subjective concept – what does it mean to you?

For me, it always means the best of everything, living and being in the best way, and providing that to others, is my vision of luxury.

Finally, what is your life motto? (if you have one)

Family, friends, good food and good wine always.

The post In Conversation With Vitor Matos, Michelin Star Chef appeared first on The Luxury Editor.

Casario

Casario is the in-house restaurant of Gran Cruz House, whose name is inspired by the historic jumble of houses surrounding the hotel. The restaurant is led by chefs Chef Miguel Castro Silva and Chef José Guedes a partnership which has stemmed from their work together over several years at the restaurant De Castro Gaia at Espaço Porto Cruz. If you want to be guided by the chef their five-course tasting menu will take you on a journey using smaller portions from the a la carte menu. Food is expertly paired with wine from their portfolio of 60 Port and Douro wine offerings from Dalva, Porto Cruz and Quinta de Ventozelo.

www.grancruzhouse.pt

Digby Restautant

Located in Hotel Avantgarde. The restaurant has collaborated with José Gordón’s El Capricho project, which produces some of the world’s finest meats; 30 day aged beef sirloin and working cow Chuleton is served at the table, with four optional fleur de sel seasonings and side dishes served inboxes. Desserts are crafted by confectioner Anabela Lemos and the bartender’s mix avantgarde signature cocktails. Midweek, an Executive Lunch is offered, while Saturdays and Sundays see a diverse brunch from 12.30pm to 3pm. Like Casario, the venue has exceptional views over Porto and the Douro River.

www.torelavantgarde.com

Blind

A culinary experience designed to delight the senses, Blind is located in the Torel Palace Hotel and is an invitation for diners to place complete trust in the chefs. Created by Vitor Matos, Blind Emotion takes on a tasting menu format comprising of eight or ten ‘moments’ (courses) depending on how hungry you are served with perfectly paired wine. Raw and natural products are transformed into edible works of art to the backdrop of a moodily lit venue with chequered black and white floor and crisp white tablecloths. Expect your taste buds and other senses to be stimulated during a dining experience here – it is truly unique. The bar serves cocktails which play on the theme, entitled: Feel, Taste, Touch, Sound, Blindness and Sixth Sense.

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Vila Foz

Part of the stunning Vila Foz Hotel and Spa boutique resort, this restaurant received its Michelin Star in 2022. Chef Arnaldo Azevedo is the creative genius behind the elegant eatery’s refined tasting menus, in which local fish reigns (although there is a fully vegetarian option too). Cooking is in Azevedo’s blood – he’s the son of a chef and began his career in the family restaurant, before deciding to train and work professionally in the gourmet sphere. The restaurant caters solely for evening meals and for those over 12 years old, retaining a serene and sophisticated ambience. The showstopper is the ‘Kitchen Seat’ at which two diners are served privately, with interaction from Arnaldo as he describes the inspiration and story behind each dish.

www.vilafozhotel.pt

Antiqvvm

Arguably the most romantic restaurant in the city, Antiqvvm has a formal and secluded garden terrace, with an Italian Renaissance feel and breathtaking views over the Douro River. The interior dining room is in a grand manor house, with original arches adding to the atmosphere. It received a star just over a year after opening its doors, wowing diners with elaborate a la carte and tasting menus from Chef Vitor Matos. Each course is artfully presented and provides a delectable experience of the finest local produce available. The location, service and of course food, is hard to beat, often leaving diners wondering why it hasn’t yet been awarded a second star.

antiqvvm.pt

Pedro Lemos

This was the first of the three to get its star – back in 2014. Wine is a big part of the experience here, with paired selections recommended alongside the tasting menus. Dishes include the likes of kohlrabi, rose shrimp, bluefin tuna and beef, with a focus on seasonality and sustainability. Housed in a renovated stone house, Pedro Lemos is close to the mouth of the Douro. There are two dining areas, the indoor restaurant, whose walls are painted in a fashionable denim blue echoing the coastal vibe (a sculpted flock of birds appear on the walls and across the ceiling) and an outdoor terrace. Dinner and lunch is served Tuesday through to Saturday.

www.pedrolemos.net/en/

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Background and Concept

Located in a 17th-century building next to Praça da Ribeira on Porto’s beautiful riverfront with views of the famous Dom Luís I Bridge, the building has had many faces over the centuries; from a private residence, coffee and chocolate warehouse, and even a football club – Clube Futebol Os Ribeirenses.

A substantial renovation process in 2018 transformed the building into Gran Cruz House a beautifully restored boutique heritage hotel. Perfectly sized with just seven rooms and an intimate hotel restaurant, it doesn’t get any more quintessentially Porto than a stay here.

Location

If you want to be right in the heart of Porto this property ticks all the boxes. Located on Porto’s historic riverfront, you are surrounded by lively bars and restaurants. Porto’s beautiful Dom Luís I Bridge is a two minute walk from the hotel, it’s a five-minute walk up the hill into central Porto and the historical Number 1 tram line to the beach is close by too. Not to mention Sao Bento train and metro station are a seven-minute walk away, providing fast and frequent access to Porto’s airport.

Look and Feel

If you want to immerse yourself in the world or Port, then this is the ideal hotel to stay, from the decorative details throughout the building and in each of the guest rooms, to the cute bar in the reception and the restaurant’s wine cellar with over 60 leading vintages. Or the gift of a bottle of Porto Cruz left in each room for you to enjoy during your stay, careful thought has been given to the whole guest experience.

Check In

After finding the hotel reception, it is discreetly tucked away, we were given a warm welcome, bags taken for us and we sat down at the bar. A glass of Port was offered to us (how can you say no!) and the manager took the time to go through a map of the city, highlighting all the must-do attractions, which was super helpful! Armed with maps and new-found local knowledge, we made out way to our bedroom.

Rooms

Small, but perfectly formed, the hotel is boutique in size with just seven rooms over four floors – all with views looking out to the river.

No two rooms are alike and each one has been named after a different Port (Pink , White, Ruby, Tawny, Reserve, LBV and Vintage). Interiors take inspiration from the colour palette of the Porto Cruz promotional campaign, whose slogan is “The Country where Black is Colour”. The central figure is the “Woman in Black, a brand icon that has existed for almost four decades. Seven contemporary artists (Ângela Ferreira (Kruella D’Enfer), Albuquerque Mendes, João Jales, Jorge Curval, José Emídio, Rui Anahory and Tamara Alves.) were then given the challenge of reinterpreting the Woman in Black and the results are wonderful.

Each room is finished differently and the bathroom door on each room has been turned into an artwork highlighting architecture, drawing, illustration and fashion exhibitions that have been the focus of Espaço Porto Cruz (Gran Cruz visitor centre) on the other side of the river.

Worth noting that there are two types of rooms: front-facing and side-facing. The front-facing rooms are larger and have views of the bridge, while the side rooms are smaller and don’t have a view of the bridge, but you can still see the river. The sixth-floor room on the roof is, painted white and includes exposed ceiling beams and if you want a room with a balcony, then head to the fourth floor.

All rooms have a minibar (that includes a free bottle of Gran Cruz and complimentary water) air conditioning and television as standard – Bathrooms are large and well-appointed, with powerful showers, marble and beautiful brass fittings and a bidet with amenities by Portus Cale a beautiful Portuguese brand.

Our Room

I loved our room; it was crisp, fresh, with a nautical theme that made the space feel airy and bright.

Bedroom

Bathroom

View during the day

View in the evening

I was in awe of the view and sat by the bedroom window sipping a cocktail for a good half an hour just looking out towards the horizon. One point to highlight, being right in the centre of town, does mean there is a constant buzz of noise throughout the day. We did wonder if this would continue into the night, but things quietened down and by midnight the centre was deserted, so there was no issue with getting to sleep.

Food and Drink

A highlight of the hotel is the in-house restaurant Casario, whose name is inspired by the historic jumble of houses surrounding the hotel. The restaurant is led by chefs Chef Miguel Castro Silva and Chef José Guedes, a partnership which has stemmed from their work together over several years at the restaurant De Castro Gaia at Espaço Porto Cruz.

The menu is built around the idea of sharing with three or four small plates suggested being eaten between two people. Dishes such as the Lula and Shrimp Lollipop, the Roasted Pumpkin Ravioli with Almond, the Sea Bass Rice with Saffron and Lemon or the Bísaro Pork, Savoy Cabbage and Portuguese Sauce are examples of the dynamism of the Casario menu.

If you want to be guided by the chef their five-course tasting menu will take you on a journey through the menu with smaller portions of the a la carte menu. Food is expertly paired with wine from their portfolio of 60 port and Douro wine offerings from Dalva, Porto Cruz and Quinta de Ventozelo.

Here is a selection of dishes that we tried. One thing to mention is if you don’t really know your wines or what goes best with what let the staff help you out – they really know their stuff and are able to pair up the perfect wine for each course or dish.

Breakfast

An à la carte breakfast, which is included in the room price, is served between 8 am and 11 am, featuring local breads and pastries, fruit and yoghurt, ham and cheese, pancakes and eggs cooked to your liking, it’s a great breakfast! We dined inside in the evening and decided to sit outside for breakfast and catch the morning sun.

Final Thoughts

Gran Cruz is a real find, it’s so small that you feel like you have the whole place to yourself, the staff are wonderful, and the price point for a stay is very reasonable in terms of the whole experience. We highly recommend it. The property is featured on our guide to the best hotel in Porto.

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