I have known Sea Grill for well over a decade, and this latest chapter feels like the most focused. The restaurant now occupies the upper level of the resort’s sea facing pavilion building, with the new La Petite Maison taking the lower, direct sea-facing space. Sea Grill is a more intimate, more cohesive space, and it suits the restaurant well.

We took a seat at our table and ordered a Negroni, prepared tableside from a trolley, served with an ice cube pressed with the Sea Grill logo and a neat circle of orange peel. Generous and well made. I had the cocktail of the day, whisky with a carrot liqueur made from the resort’s own farm, shaken and served in a coupe glass. Superb. From the bar you look straight across to the marble seafood counter on the east side, where the day’s catch sits on a bed of crushed ice under a continual flow of dry ice, framed by a view out across the terrace to the gardens and the sea beyond. On the day we visited, a ronqueo carving of a whole bluefin tuna was taking place behind the counter. It is the kind of scene that tells you immediately this kitchen lives by what it says about provenance.

Tables are set with white linen with dark blue water glasses and bespoke plates. Each is white with a blue rim and a small stamp, topped with a signature plate featuring three blue sardines. Fun, and distinctly Sea Grill. Blue velvet banquettes line the west wall, vintage-style ribbed glass globe lamps with maritime brass fittings hang from the white wood and glass pergola ceiling, and on the north wall, bespoke hand-painted ceramic tiles of fish, octopus and shells frame a wide cinematic hatch into the open kitchen. The team in white shirts, blue chinos and aprons move through the room with relaxed, attentive confidence. The one note I would lose is the terracotta pot of fresh herbs on each table, which feels at odds with the otherwise pared-back, refined aesthetic.

Bread arrived in a small iron skillet, soft buttery rolls like a light brioche, accompanied with a marble tablet of two house-blended butters. One a rich salted and the other with green algas. Irresistible. Then the smoked salmon, carved tableside from a trolley, a time-honoured recipe with a deep, authentic smoke flavour. Alongside, the classic accompaniments in miniature, including finely chopped hard-boiled egg, capers, red onion. Beautifully done, simple and elegant. The tuna tartare with Japanese mayo was a delight.

The artichokes, pan-fried in olive oil, were among the best I have had in Andalucía. A genuine highlight. The yellowfin tuna steaks, prepared à la roteña with tomatoes, onions and peppers, one of six ways the kitchen offers to prepare your fish, were less memorable, though the fresh asparagus alongside, dressed with olive oil and black pepper, was good.

Desserts are evocative of Spanish classics and traditional treats. The flan was one of the finest homemade Spanish-style flans I have tried, soft and creamy, flecked with ground vanilla pods. The bread, olive oil and chocolate was less successful in my opinion, the mousse too runny with too much oil, but served with crisp toasted slivers of crystal bread to enjoy. Both are evocative of Spanish childhood treats, the bread and chocolate a nod to the merienda, the afternoon snack of a bar of chocolate on bread. With coffee came a warm magdalena, generous after an already substantial meal.

The house white, a Nekeas Blanco 2025 from Navarra, was a good, enjoyable glass. In fact, the by-the-glass selection is extensive, and the full wine list, overseen by Wine Director Alejandro Marcos, holds over 1,400 references with two consecutive Wine Spectator awards. The dessert wine pairings alone, from a 1984 Don PX to Château d’Yquem 2022, tell you everything about the ambition of this cellar.

The quality across the board is reflected in the pricing. With a couple of starters, a fish course, dessert and a glass of wine each, lunch for two will comfortably reach almost €300. It is worth knowing before you sit down, but for this level of produce, preparation and service, it feels fair.

Sea Grill continues to earn its place at the centre of this landmark gastronomic resort. More intimate, more personal, and with a daily-changing menu that gives it a clarity and honesty genuinely rooted in the land and the sea around it.

This was a hosted lunch.

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Hovering almost angelically above the city, with wraparound 360-degree views of Edinburgh’s skyline, João’s Place has always felt like one of the city’s better-kept secrets. Named Cocktail Bar of the Year in 2025 at the Scottish Hotel Awards and listed among Condé Nast Traveller’s best rooftop bars in the city. The redesign has almost doubled the floor space, turning what was formerly the W Lounge’s chef’s table into an enhanced lounge area within the bar. Outside, the wraparound terrace offers views that stretch over Princes Street on one side, round to Arthur’s Seat and across to Calton Hill, and on a clear night like the night I was there, the Firth of Forth and its bridges glint faintly from the other side of the terrace. And fear not, gas fires take the edge off even the sharpest Scottish chill, keeping you comfortably outside well into the night. On the evening I was there, the sun was setting on one side while a full moon rose on the other, a truly magical moment.

The cocktail menu is where the Liberdade story comes to life. Rare Japanese whiskies feature Yamazaki 18, Hakushu 18 Peated Malt, and the extraordinarily exclusive Highland Park 30, while those marking a milestone can choose to open an evening with a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Edition #26. Signature cocktails embrace the São Paulo-Tokyo concept. Evening at Liberdade is a layered composition of Nikka whisky, Kahlúa and Mozart liqueur, dark and rounded. Margarita Piquant is its opposite, bright and zesty, built on Patrón Reposado, Illegal Mezcal and a jalapeño padron pepper soda. And if you go, make sure to try what ended up my favourite, the Maria, Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Port of Leith white port and oloroso sherry, coconut syrup and black walnut bitters. It’s bold and almost whisky-like in its delivery.

The food offering has expanded, too, with a larger light-dining selection, designed for sharing. Options now include items like sushi rolls with whisky-cured salmon and snow crab, wagyu empanadas with sweet ají panca and California rolls layered with Cornish brown crab, avocado and a drizzle of truffle oil. My personal favourites of the night were the crisp plantain chips served with ají amarillo, and warm, pillowy pão de queijo paired with a piquillo pepper aioli.

For live music enthusiasts, the bar hosts Sounds of João’s, an intimate acoustic session from Scottish-based musicians, running each Sunday from 4 pm to 7 pm.

The W Edinburgh is one of my favourite spots in the city for a drink and stay (read full hotel review here), and this enhancement to João’s Place further enhances its appeal. Open Wednesdays to Sundays from 3 pm – 1 am. Pre-booking is advisable, which can be made online here.

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The entrance is a narrow climb, literally, twelve steps up from the courtyard. Inside, Sartoria kow-tows to unfussy and timeless elegance, where white cotton table cloths and napkins still rule supreme but bronze lamps hold court. Everything is dramatic in its darkness and minimal in decoration, although the handful of moody black and white photos don’t display Sophia Loren, Ferrari or Dean Martin but rather the technique of dress-making. A couple of busts, one of an unnamed Roman Emperor, the other, a saucy and sozzled moon face advertising a product called ‘Rossi’, add playful decoration, confirming the space is more than a stiff paean to stuffiness. Overall, the entrance is transformative; goodbye England, hello Italy. 

I was running twenty minutes late, so I needed an immediate pick-me-up/calm-me-down. Sartoria’s main menu offers three aperitivos: Peach Bellini, Campari Spitz and, my go-to, a Negroni, which was pretty perfect and did its job impeccably. That said, for more choice, make sure you don’t miss the bar menu as we did. It lists a load of Signature Cocktails, including the evocatively titled Saville Stitch, Weekend in Milano, Il Sarto and Via Brera, all of which take the restaurant’s mythology and run with it.

Between Cicchetti e Pane, Antipasti, Primi Piatti and Secondi, it’s never an easy decision working out which courses to have and how many portions thereof. After a quick QnA session, our waiter advises and comes up with what sounds like a five-a-side football formation. Cichetti e Pani sits on the bench in favour of a two-two-one or a two-one-two. We opt for the latter. 

Antipasti is certainly a tough call with both Insalata di Polpi and Carpaccio di Filetto garnering lengthy discussions, but we eschew both. The Vittello Tonnato (Veal Carpaccio with Tuna and Caper sauce) presents simplicity as elegance. The veal slices are thin and perfectly pink, the tuna mayo is fishy, maybe with some anchovy, but not overpowering, while pickled, coloured cauliflower adds a crunchy texture and capers, a tang. The Crudo Di Tonno is a less pure tuna tartar than some, spiced up and flavoured with dill, tomatoes, Tropea onions and a green oil, but is moreish to the last. 

The Calamarata Alla Pescatora garners immediate murmurs of admiration from both my friend and I. This pasta belongs to the paccheri family and receives its name from squid, which it resembles in its tubelike form. Large enough to hide some of the seafood inside, or like clunky finger jewellery,  there’s a magnificence about this pasta. Its size and al dente chewiness make it feel like the main event and, of course, the succulent mussels, the finely cut, tender red prawns and the lobster bisque type sauce make it a joyous dish. My friend even notes its worthy of her favourite restaurant in Venice.  

I take a glass of Dolcettta d’Alba, Brezza, Piedmont with my Filetto al Pepe Verde. The Aberdeen Angus is sustainably raised and grass-fed and comes medium rare. It’s thick and chunky and is presented in a green pepper sauce full of fresh peppercorns, which burst with herbaceous crispiness. My friend takes a San Vincenzo, Anselmi, Soave with her Tonna Alla Puttanesca. The finger-sized strips of tuna are super rare, super tender, taste like they’ve been thrown in a hot pan and ripped out almost immediately. A reductive and rich tomato sauce with basil leaves, olives and capers renders the dish a romance for my friend. Special mention goes to the Patate Al Forno contorti, super fluffy on the inside, light but super crispy on the outside; an unexpectedly pure potato offering which wipes up the sauce from both Secondi dishes. 

Special mention should also go to Sartoria’s Italian themed playlist, geographically specific but stylistically and chronologically expansive. Expect therefore, anything from sixties Doo Wop to seventies Prog Rock to eighties Synth with everything in between including Mambo, Disco, Spaghetti Western, and House music. If it sounds distracting, it most certainly isn’t; eclectic it may be, exuberant it most certainly is.

Dolci consists of four choices but Tiramisu wins out as it always should and, much like in every Italian Restaurant, design and taste are idiosyncratic in the best way. Served at the table from a deep, seventies-style glass bowl, we share one portion. On closer inspection, it looks like slabs of marble sunk into concrete. It certainly isn’t as viscous as some, is relatively firm in texture and doesn’t fall apart upon first spoonful. Amaretto seems more located in the sponge, which is less soggy than many whilst the cream is thick and fresh. We love it. On our way out, the chef flits by. We have time to congratulate him on his great work, but not to ask if the Tiramisu is a family recipe. Either way, his mother would be very proud. 

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Sushita has been a fixture of Madrid’s dining scene since 1999, founded by Natacha Apolinario, Sandra and José Manuel Segimón. The brand has built a loyal following among the city’s smart set. The founding team and their R&D chefs have travelled extensively through Hong Kong, Canton, Singapore, Shanghai, London, and Paris to develop a fusion concept that goes well beyond sushi, drawing on techniques and flavours from across Asia and Europe.

Chinitas, Beautifully Reimagined

For their ninth opening and first outside the capital, Sushita chose Málaga, and specifically the building that housed El Chinitas, one of the city’s most emblematic addresses, historically linked to flamenco and the local artistic scene. The space has been beautifully reimagined. On the ground floor, a long bar runs along one side, leading to the partly open kitchen. Tables are set by the windows, in the middle of the room and in intimate alcoves. The decoration is inspired by Parladé, heavy on blues, with pieces sourced from antique dealers in Málaga, Seville and the south of France, including 17th-century Sevillian ceramic plates. The walls are painted with hand-executed murals by Johina García Concheso. Original features have been kept, including the wooden shutters, the entrance lanterns, the wrought-iron staircase railing with its worn marble steps and smooth wooden handrail.

Eugenia&Sushita tableware

The group’s collaboration with Eugenia Martínez de Irujo, the Duchess of Montoro and daughter of the late Duchess of Alba, on the Eugenia&Sushita tableware collection reflects the playful yet timeless elegance of the restaurant group, a hint at why it’s such a hit. The restaurants attract a well-connected crowd for the elegant, joyful dining experiences.

On the ground floor a table is dressed with dishes, trays and pieces from the Eugenia&Sushita collection, designed exclusively for this Málaga opening and the first place in Andalucía to offer the Eugenia&Sushita tableware. It is a lovely touch that immerses guests in the aesthetic from the moment they walk in.

We dined on the first floor, a salon with a small bar, a long table for the group and a series of charming alcoves. The walls are lined with books and ceramics, with wall lights made from sea shells. The third floor appeared set up for private events.

Tasting Menu

The cocktail list sets the tone, with author creations that fuse classic cocktail-making with an oriental twist. The Ginger Paloma with Patrón tequila and ginger syrup and the Mango Picante Colada with coconut, pineapple and a Tabasco kick are typical of the approach.

The tasting menu moved through a generous number of courses, and the kitchen’s approach was clear from the start. This is not the restrained precision of traditional Japanese sushi. This is colourful, playful, visually generous food, decorated with edible flowers, fish eggs and sauces. There is a lot going on, and it works. The flavours and textures are a delight. The kitchen works with sustainable Norwegian salmon, local Málaga producers and proximity ingredients, keeping the quality high and the sourcing considered.

The gilda de atún rojo, a riff on the Basque pintxo with red tuna and pickles, began the lunch, as we mingled with other guests. The carabinero croquetas with kimchi were a standout, the kind of dish that shows the range of the menu, fusing Spanish bar culture with Asian heat.

Once at the table, the gyozas de churrasco arrived. They were barbecue-glazed with a crisp shell and deeply flavoured. The tempura of red prawns with sweet chilli was tasty.

The sushi arrived on large boards, ready for sharing. The salmon nigiri with foie and truffle, the toro tuna gunkan and the spicy tuna maki roll were all generous and prettily presented, with that same emphasis on visual impact and Western-friendly flavour combinations.

We ended with coffee accompanied by a tiny bite-sized tarta árabe.

Final Thought

It is a fun, sociable restaurant in a beautiful building, with food that does not take itself too seriously but takes quality very seriously indeed. For Málaga, it is a welcome addition.

This was a hosted lunch for media.

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Located off Massachusetts Avenue NW, this 20,000 sq ft Japanese food hall is unlike anything else in the city. Broken into four different dining experiences, all tied together by a long red hallway inspired by the torii gates of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari shrine. Dear Sushi specialises in omakase, celebrating both traditional takes on sushi. Beloved BBQ, a high-end yakiniku steakhouse with smokeless grills at the centre of each table where diners can grill their own Japanese A5 Wagyu and American-raised beef. Hiya Izakaya, a high-energy Japanese bar with whisky highballs and other inspired cocktails plus sake, beer and wine. Japanese bar foods on offer include skewers and bites prepared over a robata grill, and Love on the Run, the most recent addition, a fast-casual spot serving fried chicken sandwiches, ramen, sushi rolls, salads, dumplings, soba, udon, ramen and their famous heart-shaped doughnuts.

Chef Makoto Okuwa’s career started in Japan, where he spent ten years training under master sushi chefs from the age of 15 before moving to Washington, D.C. Here, he secured his first job at Sushi Taro in Dupont Circle, and a few years later, left to work with Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. Chef Makoto would eventually assume the role of head sushi chef at Morimoto’s flagship in Philadelphia, as well as at his outpost in New York. Two years later, he fulfilled a lifelong dream of opening his own restaurant, Sashi Sushi + Sake Lounge in Manhattan Beach and then he went on to open restaurants in Miami, Mexico City, Panama, and São Paulo before coming full circle back to the capital. Partnering with restaurateurs Eric Eden and chef David Deshaies, who run L’Ardente (a favourite of Barack Obama’s) next door, Love, Makoto opened in 2023 in the growing Capitol Crossing.

Dear Sushi is a bright open space with light raw wooden furniture, almost Scandi in design, sitting against Prussian blue banquette seating which curves along one side. Vast linen shades hang above, while a sushi bar runs against the window.

Here it is all about the omakase; everything is thought out in precise detail, the menu presented in typewriter font as if perhaps an old love letter. Ceramic soy sauce dishes reveal a heart when they are filled. A set of iwai-bashi chopsticks dresses the table alongside a linen napkin, and a dish of ginger arrives with a quenelle of freshly grated wasabi sitting in ying and yang harmony.

We start with a lacquered box of edamame and a covered bowl of hatcho miso soup, the miso’s umami complexity leaving you craving for more. Two hand rolls are then presented on a wooden rack. The new and old school format, a signature of Chef Okuwa’s cooking, is virtually present in the white soy paper on the left and the classic nori wrapping on the right. The left filled with spicy tuna with jalapeno, wasabi, cucumber and soy, while the nori swaps a delicious baked crab filling and dynamite sauce.

Following this, sushi arrives on a single ceramic plate, eaten in a clockwise rotation, starting with Sakura tai snapper with kombu oil and sesame. Then King salmon with ponzu and sakura salt, finished with sesame. Bluefin tuna with soy marinade and wasabi, Hamachi with light soy and yuzu salt, topped with a confetti of citrus and dried flowers, and O-toro, a fatty tuna, finished with house soy and jalapeño koji.

Eating as a group, we also ordered a few dishes to share. The Hamachi with serrano chilli arrives as four thick slices of yellowtail laid out with rounds of fresh serrano on each. A spicy cucumber with shiso, the cucumbers smashed rather than sliced, dressed in chilli oil and sesame, topped with crispy shallots, dried nori. The zuke bluefin tuna with shiso ponzu, comes as four slices of soy-marinated bluefin in a shallow ponzu bath, scattered with pickled shallots, toasted sesame, shiso and tiny purple flowers.

The wagyu fried rice deserves a paragraph of its own, partly for how it tastes and partly for how it arrives. The bowl comes to the table looking austere, diced wagyu arranged in a ring around a trembling onsen egg, the whole thing buried in katsuobushi flakes. The server then mixes it in ceremonial fashion, folding the egg through the rice and meat until the whole thing becomes something richer and more yielding than the sum of its parts.

The lunch closed with cherry creamsicles, served still frozen on a wooden board, cherry blossom at dusk in colouring and drizzled with frozen berry coulis.

Header image and additional images courtesy of Love, Makoto

Final Thoughts

Dear Sushi is open 11 am–2 pm and 5–10 pm daily with Omakase priced at $85 per person, $45 for lunch and à la carte items ranging from $6–$45, correct at the time of writing. 

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Not far from Buckingham Palace, a stone’s throw from Victoria Station, situated on the corner of Ebury Street and Lower Belgrave Street, Uni is refreshingly located in a largely residential area. With its fresh and tidy white exterior contrasted by a black awning, some shrubbery marking its border, and a handful of tables placed optimistically on the pavement (in a dreary and cold mid-March), the outside could easily be mistaken for a smart neighbourhood French bistro or Italian trattoria. 

Inside, a bronze plaque boldly announces the restaurant’s name, making sure you know exactly where you are, but if you don’t know where you’re going, upstairs and downstairs are options. I head downstairs, where I’m unexpectedly transported to what feels like a 1920s-type cruise liner. Five oceanic coloured, curved booths fit into a large right angle. Each has a round marble-topped table and what could be windows looking starboard but are, in fact, mirrors. Below them, even more unexpectedly, two private dining rooms are set within historic caves, practically hidden away and rendered invisible with dark curtains. 

Upstairs, the first thing to catch any diner’s eye is the enticing golden glow of the equivalent of a wine cellar for sake; the first visual sign that Uni is, indeed, a Japanese restaurant. If there was any doubt, the sushi counter around the corner confirms it. Topped and bottomed by slick, slatted wood and bronze railings, six seats stand in front of six red lanterns in front of three hard-working chefs.

The space stretches to the right with more slats and golden wallpaper emblazoned with red flowers and white blossoms. A mirrored wall at one end offers the illusion of an area larger than the reality and we find ourselves seated at a table which should be looking out of a window but is surrounded on three edges by black velvet drapery. Uni serves forty-seven covers and definitely makes the most of its space, which is intimate and cosy.

Cocktail menu offers both classics and Japanese twists on classics, so expect Sakura Sour, Geisha, Raichi Collins to sit alongside Mojitos, Margaritas and Martinis. Usually, I aim for the restaurant’s more specific offerings but my friend utters the words ‘Espresso Martini’ almost before we’ve opened the menu and I can’t shake it out of my head. My friend defects to a Lychee Martini, which is, happily, less sweet than many served in the capital, whilst my Espresso is thick and cool and served with three coffee beans. 

The menu includes several subsections, including Nigiri, Rolls, Sashimi, Uni lux,  Izakaya style, Salads, Tacos and even the Latin American Parilla and an Omakase option. A handful of different Sea urchin options include Risotto with Parmesan and chives, and an extravagant Sea urchin with caviar gunkan. We keep proceedings relatively simple and start with a handful of baby corn cobs and an Indian inspired Fatty tuna Pani Puri. The former comes with an appealing Tajin wasabi mayonnaise, which conveys the piquancy and flavour of the root vegetable but none of its brutal kick. The menu describes the latter as ‘make your own’, so that’s what we do. There are five small crispy baskets in which to add not only the exemplary tuna but a smoky and spicy paste, barbecued corn niblets and a mojo verde type dip. 

We cleanse our palate with a bold but refreshing Wasabi Caesar salad. It’s light and crispy and again, the wasabi doesn’t overpower. The truffle gnocchis are warming, the pecans caramelised and sweet and the radish slices zesty.

The sushi comes both as nigiri and maki. The seared Tuna nigiri disintegrates impressively, the Salmon is spruced up with a small dollop of cucumber paste, which almost overpowers the salmon and the Yellowtail is lightly basted in some kind of aniseed derivative for an unusual but winning nigiri. 

Buzzing from my Espresso Martini, I return to my original intention of trying something more in line with Uni’s aesthetic. ‘Sakura’ is Japanese for ‘cherry blossom’, so I opt for a Sakura Sour, which veers towards a pink colour, is frothy on top and decorated by a purple and yellow petal. Gin-based and with cherry blossom liquor, it’s light and refreshing and rather blissful, a liquid version of a bunch of pear drops. 

We share Chilean Sea Bass which is covered in a Miso and basil paste. Pad choi, chimichurri sauce in a wooden spoon and Gohan (white) rice sprinkled with furikake accompany. There’s no Black Cod on the menu so, chunky, tender and slick, the sea bass is undoubtedly a worthy competitor to Nobu’s sublime signature offering.

For dessert, the Mochi’s look tempting, but we finish with an extravagant off-piste option worthy of any of London’s finest patisseries. Layered with flavours and textures, green pistachio sponge is divided by a yellow Yuzu jelly and a creamy top. Striations of liquid chocolate decorate, and an egg-shaped, violet coloured ice cream vies for attention opposite.

Uni likes to consider itself a neighbourhood restaurant, but even if you don’t live in Belgravia, it’s definitely worth a visit. 

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Málaga is not short of places for a good breakfast, but a proper international-style brunch is still hard to find in the city. Carmen, the ground-floor restaurant at Only YOU Málaga, has filled that gap. The welcoming lobby dining space, with its signature long bar and glass doors that fold open to the terrace, allows you to feel connected to the life of the city even when you are sitting inside. On one side, the Plaza de la Marina. Carmen draws a good mix of hotel guests and locals, making it a buzzing venue for brunch.

How It Works

The set brunch includes an assortment of bread and butters, a matcha or coffee, a cocktail of the day or juice, and a yogurt with fruit and granola or an açaí bowl. You then choose a gourmet main dish. You can also order à la carte, as well as order sides like jamon, avocado, cheese etc. So its easier to fully personalise your experience.

What We Ate

It started with the bread and butters, served on a wooden table. There were three types, presented as little paired scoops, each just bigger than the head of a teaspoon. The goat’s cheese one was standout, and a tasty accompaniment to the selection of breads.

We had the açaí bowl and the yogurt and granola bowl, both good and we toasted the morning with a Bellini, fresh and delicate, and a classic mimosa.

The Wagyu burger was a gourmet version done properly, with tender, flavoursome meat, smoked cheddar, crispy bacon, soft lightly toasted brioche, and crisp fresh lettuce leaves. Very good. The Mollete Pedro Máximo was equally tasty, with aged beef tenderloin on a mollete with wood-roasted green pepper and fries. The mollete, for those unfamiliar, is the soft, white bread from Antequera and Archidona area, that has been the heart of the Andalusian breakfast for centuries, traditionally toasted and served with olive oil, tomato and serrano ham. This was a contemporary beef version of that classic, and it worked beautifully.

The Local Touch

What lifts the menu beyond a standard hotel brunch is the Andalusian thread that runs through it. The mollete bread from Benaoján. The Axarquía avocado in the croissant. The premium extra virgin olive oil with the broken eggs. The cheese and the Ibérico ham. Even the cocktail list has a local accent. These are international brunch dishes built on local ingredients.

Carmen is a relaxed, well-located room with a city buzz that makes weekend brunch feel like an occasion rather than a meal. If you are in Málaga on a Saturday or Sunday, it is well worth a visit.

You can read The Luxury Editor Review of Only You Malaga here.

Read The Luxury Editor’s guide to the best hotels in Málaga here.

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Orion by Alex Webb exudes an immediate, casual elegance. It’s much larger than it appears from the outside and stretches deep within. Next to the bar on the left is an iced seafood counter upon which catches of the day preen like beautiful momento mori. Beyond is a marble-topped chef’s table for six and then the open-plan kitchen which is only partially visible from our table. Dark sea green tiles intersperse walls and from one, the area delineated for private parties, hanging contemporary art proclaims ‘The World’s Your Oyster’. Greenery softens various edges while white table cloths match the ash floor. 

Our excellent waiter for the night, Will, who joined the restaurant before it opened, as it was being built, even, offers us menus and holds up a small blackboard with the day’s specials. Fish is sourced from the tips of Scotland to the outliers of Cornwall; Webb has many a fisherman’s number, knows most of their boat names and wheels and deals to bring in what he does. Sometimes portions come in only five or six so grab them while you can. Hake, Dover Sole and Chalk Stream Trout are on offer today. 

My friend’s Smoked Old Fashioned causes him to groan as if he’s been pleasurably punched. It’s certainly a heady and deeply satisfying cocktail and demands to be consumed in slow, appreciative sips. I opt for the most contrary option. The small, dry oyster shell on its rim offers a literal visual interpretation of the Oyster Shell Martini, but it’s also decorated with four green onion oil spots. My friend says it’s like drinking a bag of crisps (onion without the cheese, presumably), whereas the seawater is the first flavour I notice. So basically, it’s a seawater and onion vodka martini? Well…yes; it sounds ghastly like it should be illegal, but against all odds, it is a revelation; a sublimity that fuses ingredients to form a whole far greater than the sum of its parts.

Partially inspired by my martini’s name, we each order a Carlingford oyster as an hors d’oeuvre. The ritual of adding lemon, shallot vinegar and tabasco is always part of the fun. The oysters are plump and meaty and super clean. And, maybe, they taste a little like a Vodka Martini!?

Alex’s Signature Lobster & Prawn Toast isn’t called that for nothing; it was one of his standout dishes on Master Chef, apparently. And it’s easy to understand why. Proper sized bread slices with a fluffy, light, irresistible commingling of lobster with the more traditional prawn. Covered in black sesame seeds, it possesses a dramatic, volcanic drama and also comes with a sweet carrot purée. The toast is chopped in half so it’s very easy to share but frankly it’s one I’d happily keep all to myself. Will also recommends the Seabass Crudo, which comes in six 50 pence-sized chunks, each wrapped over itself. A buttermilk sauce with dil onion is poured at the table for a creamy and unusual but effective addition to what often comes with citrus. Small grapefruit chunks do add zest and, not mentioned on the menu, a bite-sized Seabass tartar accompanies. Wrapped in a thin, crispy wrapping, it possesses an appealing purity and could well be the posher, if more emaciated, cousin to a spring roll.

Will recommends a Camille & Laurent Schaller Chablis, which is crisp, dry and smooth and works perfectly with our shared John Dory. To put it bluntly, John Dory is not a looker. Served in its murky underwater skin and unboned, therefore, it looks scary, beastly, like a creature from a black lagoon. We don’t fancy our chances at skinning or boning without doing serious damage to ourselves or indeed, our meal, so we ask the kitchen to do it. Minutes later, a metamorphosis has occurred; the beast has become a beauty. Four large filets of white meat luxuriate in a champagne sauce peppered with orange and black trout roe. The meat is moist and delicate and has a pleasant char-grilled twang. Accompanying is another Webb signature, his Slow Cooked Butter Thyme Potatoes with Parmesan. The plural is misleading and we were expecting new potatoes but this single oblong offering bears more than a passing resemblance to a chunky fish finger. Crispy on the outside, light and fluffy within, it’s topped with parmesan shavings, is eminently moreish and any self-respecting diner will want to order more than one. 

I’m suddenly anxious as, out of the corner of my eye, I think I see a flame burning towards us. Turns out it’s a large swathe of gold leaf catching the light. And this, it turns out, is edible decoration for Alex’s Twix. ‘Bloody hell! The chocolate’s hard!’ My friend proclaims as he almost breaks the plate trying to cut the thing into mouth-sized portions. The shortbread is made of tonka beans, and we end up eating it with our fingers. The dish exudes childhood dreams, compounded as it is with ice cream sitting in a mound of what could be broken cornflakes. My Brown Butter Martini has nothing childlike about it at all, of course, but it’s a knock-out compliment to dessert and another unique martini. Butter is burnt for a softer caramel flavour and mixed into the top’s semi-solid froth for what is a delirious, end-of-night tipple. 

We could easily stay for another, but as the last diners, we don’t want to overstay our welcome. Back at reception, Webb offers his good-byes to the penultimate guests. After they leave, we have a lively chat with the tired but still bright and bubbly man and his charming husband. We discuss the arrival of the fresh garlic season, the couple’s plans to move from Acton to be much closer to the restaurant, the soon-to-go-live Chef’s Table and the fact that half the Wimbledon tennis players will undoubtedly drop in during the Championships. Only recently opened, Orion by Alex Webb is sure to become a firm favourite with international tennis players and all else who visit. Book now to avoid disappointment! 

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I first met Chef José Luis Pastrana a few years ago when he was running the kitchen at Balbuena y Huertas, the restaurant at the Cavalta hotel in Seville’s Triana. In six months, he picked up both a Michelin recommendation and a Repsol Sol. Then he left to do his own thing.

He created Eterno, the name evocative of meaningful moments that stay with you. The restaurant first opened on the outskirts of Seville and has now found it city centre home in Calle Zaragoza 18, right in the heart of the Andalusian capital.

The Restaurant

The new space is intimate and minimalist. Blond wooden tables, organic lamp shades, and touches evocative of Andalusia, such as the ceramic botijo water vessels. The team is young and knowledgeable, and the service has the warmth of people who genuinely enjoy what they do. Chef Pastrana comes to the table during the meal.

The Food

The menu is divided into purezas (pure, clean plates built around a single excellent product) and guisos (slow-cooked stews, sauces and broths drawn from Andalusian family cooking). You can eat à la carte or hand yourself over to the eight-course Degusta Eterno tasting menu, with an optional wine pairing. The value is remarkable.

Chef Pastrana’s cooking is personal. He talks openly about his mother’s kitchen, her handwritten recipe book, and the smell of her stews. His opening statement on the menu reads: “Mi cocina es andaluza. Es un abrazo a la tradición y al sabor.” My cuisine is Andalusian. It is an embrace of tradition and flavour. He uses serious, contemporary techniques for time-honoured recipes, giving them a wonderful modern feel.

What We Ate

We had a memorable lunch. It started with an ensaladilla de atún mechado, drizzled with local Seville olive oil, and a homemade pâté with figs. Then langoustines in manteca colorá, the paprika-spiced lard that is one of Andalucía’s great unsung ingredients.

The standout was the guiso de tomate, gamba y bollo preñao de yema. At first sight, it appears a simple dish of prawns in a rich tomato sauce. But it’s standout. Inspired by his grandmother’s recipe, it is served with a warm fritter filled with egg yolk that you squeeze over the dish. This is the kind of food where you eagerly order more bread (The sourdough bread comes from Panadería El Motor in Marchena).

A ravioli de pringá, the slow-braised meat mixture from a Seville puchero, came wrapped in rice paper with egg, and then a jug of the puchero stock was poured at the table. Simple. Deeply flavoured.

The Wider Menu

The full carte is concise and seasonal. Among the purezas are natural oysters, foie micuit with candy floss, Almadraba bluefin tuna croissant with Payoyo cheese, and a creamy cockle ensaladilla with manzanilla air. The stews and vegetables section includes cuttlefish albondiguillas in a yellow sauce to spinach with Escacena chickpeas and a fried egg. Rice dishes include a creamy arroz of carabinero prawn and sea anemone. The meats dishes cover boneless oxtail with smoked jowl, marinated venison loin, and a beef tenderloin with potato terrine.

The Wine

The wine list focuses heavily on Andalucía, with sherries, whites and reds from Cádiz, Huelva, Seville, Córdoba and Granada, with around 160 references in total. We drank a crisp Huelva white that matched the seafood beautifully. It’s a smart, regional list that avoids the obvious choices.

The Chef

Pastrana trained under Manolo de la Osa in Cuenca, worked in five-star hotels and Michelin kitchens, and has distilled all of that know-how into something that feels genuinely his own. Eterno is not trying to be modern for the sake of it. It is a contemporary Andalusian restaurant that respects its roots, serves beautiful produce, charges fairly and makes you feel welcome from the moment you sit down.

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Somewhat counter-intuitive in its visual imagery, a blood red and gold Samurai costume cum statuette stands guard at the front door, practically pats down entering diners with its fighting spirit. To its right, the main space is grandiloquent; all super high ceilings and pillars to match. With zig-zag tiled flooring, curved leather chairs, brass handrails and a repetitive series of pendant lights which look like secondary planets orbiting a primary one, Yakuza feels very much like a French art deco spot. Or a New York brasserie imitating a French art deco spot. At the restaurant’s far end a gaudy, bronze sculpture titillates with topless men and women and what might be Neptune brandishing a trident. Next to it stands a DJ desk but tonight, it not quite being the weekend, a sultry playlist unfolds instead. Opposite the entrance, a bright backlit bar shines, but, upon closer inspection, it’s actually a sushi counter. Wearing white headbands (kamikaze bands!?) and white sushi tops, three chefs beaver away in front of samurai swords, bonsai trees and bottles of sake. 

The menu is extensive so we order cocktails to help us on our way. I like the Yakuza Cocktails which include a Shogun, Margarita and Mojito twists but opt for a Japanese Whiskey Sour which includes Nikka whisky from the barrel and yuzu and is topped by a slice of desiccated lime and egg yolk froth. My friend goes for a more straightforward Belsazar Vermouth Red on the rocks. While we nibble on a surefire dish of salted edamame, we return to the menu which includes ‘Novidades Yakuza’, ‘Entradas’ and ‘Especias Yakuza’, and that’s before the ‘MakiSushi’, the ‘Sushi e Sahimi’ the ‘Combinados’ and the ‘Da Cozinha’. Lighting is atmospheric if not dusky; I have to use the light on my phone, and my friend has forgotten his glasses. The cocktails are starting to kick in, so we ask our waiter, Jorge, if he can help out. He doesn’t falter and offers up a mixture of his favourites with the suggestion of leaving the rest to the chef, omakase style. Impressively, he grates an actual wasabi vegetable in front of us for a subtler, less pungent taste than the more common paste. 

Before hitting the sushi, we share a couple of excellent fish and guacamole crispy tacos served with thin strips of seaweed and a sumptuous Yellowtail carpaccio drizzled in truffle ponzu. Our waitress, Lenor, brings us cold Soto Sake. ‘Soto’ means ‘outside’ in Japanese. It’s dry, delicate and smooth, has elegant floral aromas and aims to recreate the balance between the elements. We’re happily agreeing it achieves its goal when an Instagram moment is thrust upon us. A large bowl glistens with ice shavings and a solid block of ice. Ferns and flowers prettify the sashimi offering of salmon, seabass, sea bream and tuna. From a green fish shaped jug, Jorge pours what seems like a pint of dry ice, which, in spite of a lack of breeze, twists and twirls with Gothic dexterity. The sashimi, much like what came before and comes after is first grade melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

A practical tsunami of sushi follows, much of which we’re instructed not to dip into soy sauce or add wasabi to. All is served on a dazzling and dramatic display of ceramic dishes and plates. Roast turbot is chargrilled and meaty but delicate. Eel is also cooked and comes with a bone marrow sauce topped with caviar. Salmon is wrapped in a betel leaf. Turbot is served with lime and ginger and caramelised onion for a crunchy and surprisingly sweet finish. It’s not all fish, though; Wagyu comes rare but warm, is super tender and dressed with granules of salt and a spot of kizami wasabi.

Gabriel, our barman, comes over and offers us another cocktail. We discuss sake ones but in the end take his lead for a Porto version of The Caprice. It seems there’s whiskey as well as Graham’s Tawny and some ruby colouring (Campari!?). It goes down a treat and is not dissimilar to a sweeter Negroni, helps us with the luxury of three gunkuns each, none of them wrapped with anything so pedestrian as seaweed. Scallops are wrapped in tuna and come with a minimum of rice. Foie gras is also wrapped in tuna and topped with stringy leek shavings. Lenor asks if we have room for one more. We probably don’t but of course say we do as her manner of question, her proud smile suggests the chef has left the best till last. Is it the best? Probably. Unforgettable? Absolutely. The height of decadence? Most certainly. Wagyu beef gunken with foie gras and a sprinkling of caramelised onion has to be the sushi to end all sushis. 

We share a Bolo de Banana e Matcha, which is a banana cake with coconut ice cream. Sprinkled with matcha and chocolate caramel soil, Lenor suggests there almost might be a ‘surprise.’ We’re not sure what she’s talking about until we start eating and something starts popping. Literally. It was called Space Dust in my time, a popping candy which now seems to be known as Cosmic Dust. Lenor kindly writes down the names of some more bars to explore but, frankly, nothing’s going to come close to the extravagant and mouth-watering evening we’ve already had.

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A large glowing sign with the restaurant’s name guides guests down a narrow side alley where a multitude of strategically placed lanterns achieve a pin-prick aesthetic and suggest drama lurks nearby. Part of the Torel Palace Porto, guests avoid the hotel’s formal entrance but, after the alley, pass by a compact and glowing azure hotel pool and a few drinks tables above which two chandeliers hang. An unassuming doorway on the left opens into the monochromatic Blind, which, chequered floor aside, is more black than white. The sight of a horseshoe bar around which no chairs are placed, no punters stand and no drinks are served is surreal, and what appears to be a contemporary art series hanging from the walls offers, in fact, a spelling of ‘sensation’ in Braille. 

There’s no messing around, and we quickly learn from Wagner that not only is he a wine sommelier but a water sommelier and, yes, he has a water menu to prove it. Pellegrini, Evian and Fiji represent more recognisable brands but the choice extends from Australia to Iceland to Scandinavia and much of Europe. We opt for Finland’s still Vellamo, which is ‘like a misty morning cloud by the sea, just before the rainfall’ and Germany’s  sparkling AQA Finelli from the Harderheck Spring – ‘high quality, pure taste and natural composition.’

Diners are asked if they have any allergies but are offered no other choice beyond a ten or twelve course tasting menu. And actually, courses aren’t ‘courses’ or ‘dishes’ or defined by ‘starters’ or ‘mains’ or ‘desserts’ but are all ‘moments’. And the ‘moments’ have names which are sometimes poetic and sometimes humorous. And half the time diners are encouraged to guess the ingredients of each ‘moment’ which leads for plenty of back and forth with our waiter César who, much like Wagner, is a non-stop source of cheery information. 

Three small moments, which make up ‘3 is Never Enough’ arrive simultaneously. The Amberjack tartlet with oscietra caviar is my favourite; it’s multicoloured, crispy and bursts with the caviar’s viscosity. The McBlind chickpea burger with curry mayo seems more of a gimmick than an haute cuisine offering but the specially designed paper and its unwrapping achieves a curiously joyous and childlike frisson. Three balls of liquid cheese from Portugal’s highest mountain are served in a deep and savoury mushroom broth whilst a hazelnut tincture is squeezed from a pipette at the table. A glass of Premier Cru ‘Natura’ champagne by chef Vitor Matos, no less, accompanies a small batch of 160 bottles which was harvested in 2016. The restaurant is down to its final three bottles, and we feel privileged. 

‘Candlelight’ is as it sounds. However, the candle isn’t made of wax but butter with garlic and specks of parsley. The wick burns, the hard butter melts. It’s served with sourdough full of pine nuts and is all so moreish that we go through two candles. ‘A Sin in a Spoon’ is a small bowl of foie gras decorated with star shaped granny smith apple, muscat gel and elderflower gel. Foie Gras errs more towards the soft than the solid so a spoon is definitely in order for a sloppy and extravagant mix. ‘A Clash of temperatures’ consists of raw Algarve prawns, more caviar, grapefruit and orange segments, all of which are covered in a warm leek foam at the table for an exercise in contrasts. 

At some point we notice a dry, red, inverted rose hanging above our table. What does it mean? Some kind of normative subversion, one assumes, which is definitely the case when César brings us not the next dish but two black blindfolds. Yes, we’re to fulfil the name of the restaurant by eating without vision and the evening suddenly becomes a mental exercise, a guessing game. What, actually, are we eating? César refuses to reveal, wants us to tell him. Hmmmm. Well…There’s definitely some mushrooms, not so obvious for their flavour, but their minuscule and slippery shape. And some fish for sure. My companion thinks it’s maybe monkfish. I think maybe prawns. Something in the back of my mind tells me a Michelin-starred chef wouldn’t be so lazy as to serve prawns twice in a row. I ignore my own advice and we opt for prawns. I’m right and I’m wrong; of course, a Michelin star restaurant wouldn’t serve two moments of prawns. We would never have guessed. Hardly knew the things existed: Sea snails! In a garlic and butter sauce with mushrooms! 

Wagner keeps the wine flowing thick and fast. We have Guri by Vinvevinu, we have Lacrau Garrafeira, we have Vinha Paz Reserva. We have a blind tasting session with the wine, too, where we fail miserably to identify what we’re drinking and then we have wine from a bottle which is never opened. Almost like a magic trick, this is made possible by a Coravin device, specifically invented to pour wine without removing the cork, so that the bottle doesn’t go off if you don’t fancy drinking it all. 

We devour ‘Sea Breeze’, which is a tender chunk of cod with plankton powder and seaweed. We devour ‘Feel the Sea’ which is red snapper with sea lettuce, and saffron-infused couscous. We devour ‘Meat Fell in the Ashes’, another one of my favourites. Not only is it the first meat dish, Wagyu, it’s also the closest the meal comes to having an identifiable ‘main’. Dehydrated mushrooms act out the titular ash role and crispy seaweed works with Swiss chard and rice for an all-around richer and heavier dish. Before we know it, three hours have whipped by, and we’re presented with ‘Red Passion’, a seriously colourful and happily bright dessert. With luscious red, Mae West lips, the concoction includes mascarpone (the lips), mini meringues, lychee gel, egg custard and ice cream and resembles a joyous cubist portrait or a child’s pic ’n’ mix presentation.

A final moment called ‘Adam and Eve’ ends the evening. Served on a picture frame and a printed painting, three petit fours make their own statement; food can transcend its functionality and also work as art. After a titillating and lively evening full of surprise and delight, technique and flavour, it’s a tough one to disagree with.

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Opened in 2017 as the SANA Hotels group’s first project outside the hotel world, SUD Lisboa is a two-building complex designed by the Portuguese architect António Pinto and connected by a sky bridge. One side is the Terraza, a Mediterranean restaurant with a rooftop infinity pool that has become one of the most photographed spots in the city. The other is the Hall, a 1,600 square metre events space that can hold up to 1,500 people and which has established itself as the premium venue in the Portuguese capital. The OMEGA watch launch with Cindy Crawford happened here. HBO chose it for their Portuguese debut. Eight Michelin-starred chefs cooked on the same night here last summer. When something significant needs a stage in Lisbon, it tends to end up at SUD Lisboa.

The Terrazza

The Terrazza is the restaurant and bar side of SUD Lisboa. This is where dining out has a real sense of occasion. Striking design, live music, Mediterranean and handcrafted cocktails that create unforgettable evenings. Executive Chef Patrick Lefeuvre’s menu embraces the flavours of Italy and beyond, with pizza, risotto and seafood alongside a wine list that favours Portuguese producers. The rooftop Lounge, with its infinity pool looking out towards the bridge, draws the city’s stylish crowd.

SUD Lisboa Hall

The Hall is where things are taken to another level. Over 1,600 square metres across two floors, with floor-to-ceiling glass on the river side, it is the largest purpose-built premium events space in Lisbon and one of the most versatile. The architecture is contemporary and deliberately restrained, designed to disappear behind whatever is being staged rather than compete with it. Full AV, lighting, and sound infrastructure is built in. An in-house team manages everything from concept to execution, with catering by from the kitchens of Patrick Lefeuvre.

What makes the Hall work is not just the technical spec but the fact that the Tagus, the bridge, and the Cristo Rei on the opposite bank are permanently present through those glass walls. No set designer can match that setting. It means a product launch, a seated dinner for 200 or a gala for over a thousand all share the same extraordinary backdrop.

Under the Stars

The event that best captures what SUD Lisboa Hall can do took place on 17 July 2025, when the venue marked its eighth anniversary with Under the Stars. Eight of Portugal’s most celebrated chefs, holding ten Michelin stars between them, cooked a single walking dinner on the same evening. Rui Silvestre of Fifty Seconds coordinated the kitchen. Vítor Matos, the most decorated chef in the country with five stars across his restaurants, brought gamba violeta with caviar. Alexandre Silva from Loco, Ljubomir Stanisic of 100 Maneiras, Diogo Formiga, Habner Gomes, Louis Anjos and Louise Bourrat, named Chef Revelation of the Year at the 2024 Mesa Marcada awards, each contributed a course. Marc Pinto, winner of the Michelin Sommelier Prize, selected the wines. Desserts moved to the rooftop for a sunset party with live music, DJ sets and a cooking show led by Lefeuvre. It was, by any reasonable measure, the most extraordinary assembly of Michelin talent ever staged in Lisbon for a single night. A more ambitious second edition is already planned for 2026.

The Wedding Club

Lisbon has become one of Europe’s most popular destination wedding cities, and SUD Lisboa Hall is making one of the strongest cases for being its best venue. The Wedding Club is a dedicated planning service for couples who want the river, the bridge, and the Lisbon light without the constraints of a hotel ballroom. The Hall can be dressed for ceremonies, receptions, and parties, and the Terrazza and Pool Lounge are available for welcome drinks or next-day brunches. Through the wider SANA collection, wedding guests get preferential rates at the group’s Lisbon hotels, and the Sayanna Spa manages bridal party treatments.

Salomé Gorgiladze, SANA’s Business Development Director and an Executive Board Member, has been one of the driving forces behind SUD Lisboa since its inception. Georgian-born, internationally educated, she is eager to position SUD Lisboa as a lifestyle and events destination with European relevance. The celebratory Under the Stars reflected the remarkable reputation of the venue. SUD Lisboa began as SANA’s experiment in doing something beyond hotels. Nearly a decade later, it has become one of the defining venues in the Portuguese capital.

You can read The Luxury Editor interview with Salomé Gorgiladze here.

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