I have known Sea Grill for well over a decade, and this latest chapter feels like the most focused. The restaurant now occupies the upper level of the resort’s sea facing pavilion building, with the new La Petite Maison taking the lower, direct sea-facing space. Sea Grill is a more intimate, more cohesive space, and it suits the restaurant well.

We took a seat at our table and ordered a Negroni, prepared tableside from a trolley, served with an ice cube pressed with the Sea Grill logo and a neat circle of orange peel. Generous and well made. I had the cocktail of the day, whisky with a carrot liqueur made from the resort’s own farm, shaken and served in a coupe glass. Superb. From the bar you look straight across to the marble seafood counter on the east side, where the day’s catch sits on a bed of crushed ice under a continual flow of dry ice, framed by a view out across the terrace to the gardens and the sea beyond. On the day we visited, a ronqueo carving of a whole bluefin tuna was taking place behind the counter. It is the kind of scene that tells you immediately this kitchen lives by what it says about provenance.

Tables are set with white linen with dark blue water glasses and bespoke plates. Each is white with a blue rim and a small stamp, topped with a signature plate featuring three blue sardines. Fun, and distinctly Sea Grill. Blue velvet banquettes line the west wall, vintage-style ribbed glass globe lamps with maritime brass fittings hang from the white wood and glass pergola ceiling, and on the north wall, bespoke hand-painted ceramic tiles of fish, octopus and shells frame a wide cinematic hatch into the open kitchen. The team in white shirts, blue chinos and aprons move through the room with relaxed, attentive confidence. The one note I would lose is the terracotta pot of fresh herbs on each table, which feels at odds with the otherwise pared-back, refined aesthetic.

Bread arrived in a small iron skillet, soft buttery rolls like a light brioche, accompanied with a marble tablet of two house-blended butters. One a rich salted and the other with green algas. Irresistible. Then the smoked salmon, carved tableside from a trolley, a time-honoured recipe with a deep, authentic smoke flavour. Alongside, the classic accompaniments in miniature, including finely chopped hard-boiled egg, capers, red onion. Beautifully done, simple and elegant. The tuna tartare with Japanese mayo was a delight.

The artichokes, pan-fried in olive oil, were among the best I have had in Andalucía. A genuine highlight. The yellowfin tuna steaks, prepared à la roteña with tomatoes, onions and peppers, one of six ways the kitchen offers to prepare your fish, were less memorable, though the fresh asparagus alongside, dressed with olive oil and black pepper, was good.

Desserts are evocative of Spanish classics and traditional treats. The flan was one of the finest homemade Spanish-style flans I have tried, soft and creamy, flecked with ground vanilla pods. The bread, olive oil and chocolate was less successful in my opinion, the mousse too runny with too much oil, but served with crisp toasted slivers of crystal bread to enjoy. Both are evocative of Spanish childhood treats, the bread and chocolate a nod to the merienda, the afternoon snack of a bar of chocolate on bread. With coffee came a warm magdalena, generous after an already substantial meal.

The house white, a Nekeas Blanco 2025 from Navarra, was a good, enjoyable glass. In fact, the by-the-glass selection is extensive, and the full wine list, overseen by Wine Director Alejandro Marcos, holds over 1,400 references with two consecutive Wine Spectator awards. The dessert wine pairings alone, from a 1984 Don PX to Château d’Yquem 2022, tell you everything about the ambition of this cellar.

The quality across the board is reflected in the pricing. With a couple of starters, a fish course, dessert and a glass of wine each, lunch for two will comfortably reach almost €300. It is worth knowing before you sit down, but for this level of produce, preparation and service, it feels fair.

Sea Grill continues to earn its place at the centre of this landmark gastronomic resort. More intimate, more personal, and with a daily-changing menu that gives it a clarity and honesty genuinely rooted in the land and the sea around it.

This was a hosted lunch.

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Hovering almost angelically above the city, with wraparound 360-degree views of Edinburgh’s skyline, João’s Place has always felt like one of the city’s better-kept secrets. Named Cocktail Bar of the Year in 2025 at the Scottish Hotel Awards and listed among Condé Nast Traveller’s best rooftop bars in the city. The redesign has almost doubled the floor space, turning what was formerly the W Lounge’s chef’s table into an enhanced lounge area within the bar. Outside, the wraparound terrace offers views that stretch over Princes Street on one side, round to Arthur’s Seat and across to Calton Hill, and on a clear night like the night I was there, the Firth of Forth and its bridges glint faintly from the other side of the terrace. And fear not, gas fires take the edge off even the sharpest Scottish chill, keeping you comfortably outside well into the night. On the evening I was there, the sun was setting on one side while a full moon rose on the other, a truly magical moment.

The cocktail menu is where the Liberdade story comes to life. Rare Japanese whiskies feature Yamazaki 18, Hakushu 18 Peated Malt, and the extraordinarily exclusive Highland Park 30, while those marking a milestone can choose to open an evening with a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Edition #26. Signature cocktails embrace the São Paulo-Tokyo concept. Evening at Liberdade is a layered composition of Nikka whisky, Kahlúa and Mozart liqueur, dark and rounded. Margarita Piquant is its opposite, bright and zesty, built on Patrón Reposado, Illegal Mezcal and a jalapeño padron pepper soda. And if you go, make sure to try what ended up my favourite, the Maria, Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Port of Leith white port and oloroso sherry, coconut syrup and black walnut bitters. It’s bold and almost whisky-like in its delivery.

The food offering has expanded, too, with a larger light-dining selection, designed for sharing. Options now include items like sushi rolls with whisky-cured salmon and snow crab, wagyu empanadas with sweet ají panca and California rolls layered with Cornish brown crab, avocado and a drizzle of truffle oil. My personal favourites of the night were the crisp plantain chips served with ají amarillo, and warm, pillowy pão de queijo paired with a piquillo pepper aioli.

For live music enthusiasts, the bar hosts Sounds of João’s, an intimate acoustic session from Scottish-based musicians, running each Sunday from 4 pm to 7 pm.

The W Edinburgh is one of my favourite spots in the city for a drink and stay (read full hotel review here), and this enhancement to João’s Place further enhances its appeal. Open Wednesdays to Sundays from 3 pm – 1 am. Pre-booking is advisable, which can be made online here.

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The restaurant is running a curated wine menu created in partnership with writer, author, and broadcaster Hannah Crosbie, alongside Lucas Löwi, Estate Director of the celebrated Terrazas de los Andes winery. The pairing is available across all nineteen Gaucho restaurants nationwide during May.

Terrazas de los Andes occupies a rarefied position in the world of fine wine. Founded three decades ago in Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, the estate built its reputation on an “Ascension Journey”, a quest to plant vines at ever greater elevations across Mendoza’s most coveted appellations. From the historic Malbec parcels of Las Compuertas at 1,070 metres to El Espinillo in Gualtallary, perched at 1,650 metres and recognised as the highest productive vineyard of the Uco Valley, the winery’s philosophy is one of altitude as artistry.

Crosbie’s choices showcase the breadth of the estate. The Grand Malbec 2022 leads the lineup full-bodied, layered with violet, thyme, blackberries, and a lift of citrus. Besides it, the Reserva Malbec 2024 offers something more generous and immediate, its black fruits laced with mountain spice and a whisper of chocolate.

The menu reaches beyond Malbec, too. A bright, expressive Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 and a Reserva Chardonnay 2024 round out the selection, demonstrating that Mendoza’s high-altitude terroir has rather more to say than the country’s signature grape alone.

The wines find natural partners in Gaucho’s most expressive plates. Hand-cut steak tartare arrives with chimichurri, crispy wonton, and cornichons, a dish made for the herbaceous lift of a young Malbec. The Gaucho churrasco sirloin, spiral-cut and marinated in garlic, parsley, and olive oil, is the kind of bold, flavour-forward classic that the Grand Malbec was practically built to accompany. To finish, a dulce de leche Basque cheesecake, caramelised, molten-centred, unapologetically rich, provides an indulgent closing note.

The curated menu is available now across Gaucho restaurants nationwide. Reservations can be made via gauchorestaurants.com.

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Adnams 9 Year Old – English Rye Whisky

A single-cask English rye from Adnams in Southwold, Suffolk, one of the country’s most quietly accomplished craft distilleries and a benchmark producer in the category. Matured in a French oak wine cask and bottled at 46.6% ABV, the nose and palate lean into orange cream, ginger, Victoria sponge and honey, creamy, gently spiced and notably approachable. Limited to 340 bottles.

An English Distillery 12 Year Old – English Single Malt

A cask-strength single malt from an undisclosed English distillery, matured in a bourbon cask and bottled at a robust 54% ABV. Bold and structured, neat, it opens out generously with water to reveal melon rind, molasses, ice cream and waffles. A persuasive case for the seriousness of mature English single malt. Llimited to 240 bottles.

A Highland Distillery 12 Year Old – Highland Single Malt

An Oloroso-matured Highland single malt from an undisclosed distillery, bottled at 46.3% ABV. The nose is fruity and nutty with a friendly, sherried lift; the palate brings roasted nuts, sultanas and a balancing thread of salt and sweetness. Beautifully composed and eminently drinkable. Limited to 350 bottles.

Ben Nevis 27 Year Old – Highland Single Malt

The headline release of the collection and the rarest. Distilled at Ben Nevis Distillery in Fort William in December 1998, the month Scotland last appeared at a World Cup, this single cask has matured through refill and refill PX hogsheads before being disgorged in March 2026. At 47.5% ABV, the nose offers layered oak, spice and herbal notes; the palate moves through tropical fruit, melon rind and molasses, finishing with the kind of graceful complexity that older Ben Nevis is increasingly prized for. Limited to just 129 bottles.

Irish Whiskey 8 Year Old – Double Cask

A blend of two casks from an undisclosed Irish distillery: a 13-year-old red wine barrique and an 8-year-old first-fill bourbon barrel, married and bottled at 43.4% ABV. Fresh and fruity on the nose, with fleshy sweetness, oak and tannin on the palate, finishing on grapes, melon and vanilla custard. The smallest outturn in the range and limited to just 66 bottles.

The Master of Malt Independent Bottlings Football Special Edition range is available exclusively at masterofmalt.com now

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The entrance is a narrow climb, literally, twelve steps up from the courtyard. Inside, Sartoria kow-tows to unfussy and timeless elegance, where white cotton table cloths and napkins still rule supreme but bronze lamps hold court. Everything is dramatic in its darkness and minimal in decoration, although the handful of moody black and white photos don’t display Sophia Loren, Ferrari or Dean Martin but rather the technique of dress-making. A couple of busts, one of an unnamed Roman Emperor, the other, a saucy and sozzled moon face advertising a product called ‘Rossi’, add playful decoration, confirming the space is more than a stiff paean to stuffiness. Overall, the entrance is transformative; goodbye England, hello Italy. 

I was running twenty minutes late, so I needed an immediate pick-me-up/calm-me-down. Sartoria’s main menu offers three aperitivos: Peach Bellini, Campari Spitz and, my go-to, a Negroni, which was pretty perfect and did its job impeccably. That said, for more choice, make sure you don’t miss the bar menu as we did. It lists a load of Signature Cocktails, including the evocatively titled Saville Stitch, Weekend in Milano, Il Sarto and Via Brera, all of which take the restaurant’s mythology and run with it.

Between Cicchetti e Pane, Antipasti, Primi Piatti and Secondi, it’s never an easy decision working out which courses to have and how many portions thereof. After a quick QnA session, our waiter advises and comes up with what sounds like a five-a-side football formation. Cichetti e Pani sits on the bench in favour of a two-two-one or a two-one-two. We opt for the latter. 

Antipasti is certainly a tough call with both Insalata di Polpi and Carpaccio di Filetto garnering lengthy discussions, but we eschew both. The Vittello Tonnato (Veal Carpaccio with Tuna and Caper sauce) presents simplicity as elegance. The veal slices are thin and perfectly pink, the tuna mayo is fishy, maybe with some anchovy, but not overpowering, while pickled, coloured cauliflower adds a crunchy texture and capers, a tang. The Crudo Di Tonno is a less pure tuna tartar than some, spiced up and flavoured with dill, tomatoes, Tropea onions and a green oil, but is moreish to the last. 

The Calamarata Alla Pescatora garners immediate murmurs of admiration from both my friend and I. This pasta belongs to the paccheri family and receives its name from squid, which it resembles in its tubelike form. Large enough to hide some of the seafood inside, or like clunky finger jewellery,  there’s a magnificence about this pasta. Its size and al dente chewiness make it feel like the main event and, of course, the succulent mussels, the finely cut, tender red prawns and the lobster bisque type sauce make it a joyous dish. My friend even notes its worthy of her favourite restaurant in Venice.  

I take a glass of Dolcettta d’Alba, Brezza, Piedmont with my Filetto al Pepe Verde. The Aberdeen Angus is sustainably raised and grass-fed and comes medium rare. It’s thick and chunky and is presented in a green pepper sauce full of fresh peppercorns, which burst with herbaceous crispiness. My friend takes a San Vincenzo, Anselmi, Soave with her Tonna Alla Puttanesca. The finger-sized strips of tuna are super rare, super tender, taste like they’ve been thrown in a hot pan and ripped out almost immediately. A reductive and rich tomato sauce with basil leaves, olives and capers renders the dish a romance for my friend. Special mention goes to the Patate Al Forno contorti, super fluffy on the inside, light but super crispy on the outside; an unexpectedly pure potato offering which wipes up the sauce from both Secondi dishes. 

Special mention should also go to Sartoria’s Italian themed playlist, geographically specific but stylistically and chronologically expansive. Expect therefore, anything from sixties Doo Wop to seventies Prog Rock to eighties Synth with everything in between including Mambo, Disco, Spaghetti Western, and House music. If it sounds distracting, it most certainly isn’t; eclectic it may be, exuberant it most certainly is.

Dolci consists of four choices but Tiramisu wins out as it always should and, much like in every Italian Restaurant, design and taste are idiosyncratic in the best way. Served at the table from a deep, seventies-style glass bowl, we share one portion. On closer inspection, it looks like slabs of marble sunk into concrete. It certainly isn’t as viscous as some, is relatively firm in texture and doesn’t fall apart upon first spoonful. Amaretto seems more located in the sponge, which is less soggy than many whilst the cream is thick and fresh. We love it. On our way out, the chef flits by. We have time to congratulate him on his great work, but not to ask if the Tiramisu is a family recipe. Either way, his mother would be very proud. 

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Sushita has been a fixture of Madrid’s dining scene since 1999, founded by Natacha Apolinario, Sandra and José Manuel Segimón. The brand has built a loyal following among the city’s smart set. The founding team and their R&D chefs have travelled extensively through Hong Kong, Canton, Singapore, Shanghai, London, and Paris to develop a fusion concept that goes well beyond sushi, drawing on techniques and flavours from across Asia and Europe.

Chinitas, Beautifully Reimagined

For their ninth opening and first outside the capital, Sushita chose Málaga, and specifically the building that housed El Chinitas, one of the city’s most emblematic addresses, historically linked to flamenco and the local artistic scene. The space has been beautifully reimagined. On the ground floor, a long bar runs along one side, leading to the partly open kitchen. Tables are set by the windows, in the middle of the room and in intimate alcoves. The decoration is inspired by Parladé, heavy on blues, with pieces sourced from antique dealers in Málaga, Seville and the south of France, including 17th-century Sevillian ceramic plates. The walls are painted with hand-executed murals by Johina García Concheso. Original features have been kept, including the wooden shutters, the entrance lanterns, the wrought-iron staircase railing with its worn marble steps and smooth wooden handrail.

Eugenia&Sushita tableware

The group’s collaboration with Eugenia Martínez de Irujo, the Duchess of Montoro and daughter of the late Duchess of Alba, on the Eugenia&Sushita tableware collection reflects the playful yet timeless elegance of the restaurant group, a hint at why it’s such a hit. The restaurants attract a well-connected crowd for the elegant, joyful dining experiences.

On the ground floor a table is dressed with dishes, trays and pieces from the Eugenia&Sushita collection, designed exclusively for this Málaga opening and the first place in Andalucía to offer the Eugenia&Sushita tableware. It is a lovely touch that immerses guests in the aesthetic from the moment they walk in.

We dined on the first floor, a salon with a small bar, a long table for the group and a series of charming alcoves. The walls are lined with books and ceramics, with wall lights made from sea shells. The third floor appeared set up for private events.

Tasting Menu

The cocktail list sets the tone, with author creations that fuse classic cocktail-making with an oriental twist. The Ginger Paloma with Patrón tequila and ginger syrup and the Mango Picante Colada with coconut, pineapple and a Tabasco kick are typical of the approach.

The tasting menu moved through a generous number of courses, and the kitchen’s approach was clear from the start. This is not the restrained precision of traditional Japanese sushi. This is colourful, playful, visually generous food, decorated with edible flowers, fish eggs and sauces. There is a lot going on, and it works. The flavours and textures are a delight. The kitchen works with sustainable Norwegian salmon, local Málaga producers and proximity ingredients, keeping the quality high and the sourcing considered.

The gilda de atún rojo, a riff on the Basque pintxo with red tuna and pickles, began the lunch, as we mingled with other guests. The carabinero croquetas with kimchi were a standout, the kind of dish that shows the range of the menu, fusing Spanish bar culture with Asian heat.

Once at the table, the gyozas de churrasco arrived. They were barbecue-glazed with a crisp shell and deeply flavoured. The tempura of red prawns with sweet chilli was tasty.

The sushi arrived on large boards, ready for sharing. The salmon nigiri with foie and truffle, the toro tuna gunkan and the spicy tuna maki roll were all generous and prettily presented, with that same emphasis on visual impact and Western-friendly flavour combinations.

We ended with coffee accompanied by a tiny bite-sized tarta árabe.

Final Thought

It is a fun, sociable restaurant in a beautiful building, with food that does not take itself too seriously but takes quality very seriously indeed. For Málaga, it is a welcome addition.

This was a hosted lunch for media.

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Located off Massachusetts Avenue NW, this 20,000 sq ft Japanese food hall is unlike anything else in the city. Broken into four different dining experiences, all tied together by a long red hallway inspired by the torii gates of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari shrine. Dear Sushi specialises in omakase, celebrating both traditional takes on sushi. Beloved BBQ, a high-end yakiniku steakhouse with smokeless grills at the centre of each table where diners can grill their own Japanese A5 Wagyu and American-raised beef. Hiya Izakaya, a high-energy Japanese bar with whisky highballs and other inspired cocktails plus sake, beer and wine. Japanese bar foods on offer include skewers and bites prepared over a robata grill, and Love on the Run, the most recent addition, a fast-casual spot serving fried chicken sandwiches, ramen, sushi rolls, salads, dumplings, soba, udon, ramen and their famous heart-shaped doughnuts.

Chef Makoto Okuwa’s career started in Japan, where he spent ten years training under master sushi chefs from the age of 15 before moving to Washington, D.C. Here, he secured his first job at Sushi Taro in Dupont Circle, and a few years later, left to work with Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. Chef Makoto would eventually assume the role of head sushi chef at Morimoto’s flagship in Philadelphia, as well as at his outpost in New York. Two years later, he fulfilled a lifelong dream of opening his own restaurant, Sashi Sushi + Sake Lounge in Manhattan Beach and then he went on to open restaurants in Miami, Mexico City, Panama, and São Paulo before coming full circle back to the capital. Partnering with restaurateurs Eric Eden and chef David Deshaies, who run L’Ardente (a favourite of Barack Obama’s) next door, Love, Makoto opened in 2023 in the growing Capitol Crossing.

Dear Sushi is a bright open space with light raw wooden furniture, almost Scandi in design, sitting against Prussian blue banquette seating which curves along one side. Vast linen shades hang above, while a sushi bar runs against the window.

Here it is all about the omakase; everything is thought out in precise detail, the menu presented in typewriter font as if perhaps an old love letter. Ceramic soy sauce dishes reveal a heart when they are filled. A set of iwai-bashi chopsticks dresses the table alongside a linen napkin, and a dish of ginger arrives with a quenelle of freshly grated wasabi sitting in ying and yang harmony.

We start with a lacquered box of edamame and a covered bowl of hatcho miso soup, the miso’s umami complexity leaving you craving for more. Two hand rolls are then presented on a wooden rack. The new and old school format, a signature of Chef Okuwa’s cooking, is virtually present in the white soy paper on the left and the classic nori wrapping on the right. The left filled with spicy tuna with jalapeno, wasabi, cucumber and soy, while the nori swaps a delicious baked crab filling and dynamite sauce.

Following this, sushi arrives on a single ceramic plate, eaten in a clockwise rotation, starting with Sakura tai snapper with kombu oil and sesame. Then King salmon with ponzu and sakura salt, finished with sesame. Bluefin tuna with soy marinade and wasabi, Hamachi with light soy and yuzu salt, topped with a confetti of citrus and dried flowers, and O-toro, a fatty tuna, finished with house soy and jalapeño koji.

Eating as a group, we also ordered a few dishes to share. The Hamachi with serrano chilli arrives as four thick slices of yellowtail laid out with rounds of fresh serrano on each. A spicy cucumber with shiso, the cucumbers smashed rather than sliced, dressed in chilli oil and sesame, topped with crispy shallots, dried nori. The zuke bluefin tuna with shiso ponzu, comes as four slices of soy-marinated bluefin in a shallow ponzu bath, scattered with pickled shallots, toasted sesame, shiso and tiny purple flowers.

The wagyu fried rice deserves a paragraph of its own, partly for how it tastes and partly for how it arrives. The bowl comes to the table looking austere, diced wagyu arranged in a ring around a trembling onsen egg, the whole thing buried in katsuobushi flakes. The server then mixes it in ceremonial fashion, folding the egg through the rice and meat until the whole thing becomes something richer and more yielding than the sum of its parts.

The lunch closed with cherry creamsicles, served still frozen on a wooden board, cherry blossom at dusk in colouring and drizzled with frozen berry coulis.

Header image and additional images courtesy of Love, Makoto

Final Thoughts

Dear Sushi is open 11 am–2 pm and 5–10 pm daily with Omakase priced at $85 per person, $45 for lunch and à la carte items ranging from $6–$45, correct at the time of writing. 

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The distillery’s credentials are well established. Tracing its roots to 1814, Loch Lomond operates from a site in Alexandria just a few miles from the loch itself and has built a reputation for one of the most technically flexible approaches to spirit creation in Scotland. Its signature straight-neck stills, which are unique in Scottish whisky, give Master Blender Michael Henry exceptional control over reflux and flavour development, shaping the fruit-led, honeyed and gently smoky profile that defines the brand. Add to that one of only four onsite cooperages in Scotland, and Loch Lomond has long had the technical means to tailor whiskies around specific occasions.

“Royal Birkdale holds a special place in the history of The Open. As one of the purest tests of links golf, it has provided the stage for some of the Championship’s greatest moments. Through these new expressions, we have sought to explore the spirit of the course, the players and the craft that defines this historic venue. Each whisky is unmistakably Loch Lomond in character, showcasing our ability to create depth, balance and complexity while remaining true to our house style.” says Michael Henry.

Packaging for both 2026 editions features artwork commissioned from UK design agency Bucket List Prints, whose vintage travel poster aesthetic captures the romance of golf on England’s north-west coast.

The Open Course Collection 2026

The flagship release, bottled at 46.9% ABV, is limited to just 3,000 bottles worldwide. Matured for 19 years in American oak before spending a further six months in Tawny Port casks, it’s a whisky built for considered sipping. The outer packaging carries the date, venue and winner of every Open Championship, from Prestwick in 1860 through to Royal Birkdale in 2026.

On the nose, toasted oak, apple, ginger and vanilla. The palate opens into toffee, pineapple and lemon, with cinnamon spice and the Port influence adding red berries and dried fruit sweetness. The finish is long, with warming oak spice and Loch Lomond’s characteristic thread of soft smoke. At £195, it sits firmly in collector and enthusiast territory.

The Open Special Edition 2026

Created in collaboration with Colin Montgomerie, this expression follows a similar path, American oak maturation establishing the house style, before a six-month finish in Argentinian Malbec casks steers it toward a deeper, berry-led character.

The nose offers dark berries, redcurrant and citrus zest alongside vanilla, honey and soft malt. On the palate, blackberry, raspberry and peach syrup lead, layered with crisp apple, toffee sweetness and gentle spice, while a subtle smoky note keeps it firmly within the Loch Lomond family. The finish is medium in length, with lingering berry sweetness, soft oak spice and light smoky warmth.

The Open Course Collection 2026 (46.9% ABV) and The Open Special Edition 2026 (46% ABV) are available now from lochlomondwhiskies.com and other online whisky outlets.

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Not far from Buckingham Palace, a stone’s throw from Victoria Station, situated on the corner of Ebury Street and Lower Belgrave Street, Uni is refreshingly located in a largely residential area. With its fresh and tidy white exterior contrasted by a black awning, some shrubbery marking its border, and a handful of tables placed optimistically on the pavement (in a dreary and cold mid-March), the outside could easily be mistaken for a smart neighbourhood French bistro or Italian trattoria. 

Inside, a bronze plaque boldly announces the restaurant’s name, making sure you know exactly where you are, but if you don’t know where you’re going, upstairs and downstairs are options. I head downstairs, where I’m unexpectedly transported to what feels like a 1920s-type cruise liner. Five oceanic coloured, curved booths fit into a large right angle. Each has a round marble-topped table and what could be windows looking starboard but are, in fact, mirrors. Below them, even more unexpectedly, two private dining rooms are set within historic caves, practically hidden away and rendered invisible with dark curtains. 

Upstairs, the first thing to catch any diner’s eye is the enticing golden glow of the equivalent of a wine cellar for sake; the first visual sign that Uni is, indeed, a Japanese restaurant. If there was any doubt, the sushi counter around the corner confirms it. Topped and bottomed by slick, slatted wood and bronze railings, six seats stand in front of six red lanterns in front of three hard-working chefs.

The space stretches to the right with more slats and golden wallpaper emblazoned with red flowers and white blossoms. A mirrored wall at one end offers the illusion of an area larger than the reality and we find ourselves seated at a table which should be looking out of a window but is surrounded on three edges by black velvet drapery. Uni serves forty-seven covers and definitely makes the most of its space, which is intimate and cosy.

Cocktail menu offers both classics and Japanese twists on classics, so expect Sakura Sour, Geisha, Raichi Collins to sit alongside Mojitos, Margaritas and Martinis. Usually, I aim for the restaurant’s more specific offerings but my friend utters the words ‘Espresso Martini’ almost before we’ve opened the menu and I can’t shake it out of my head. My friend defects to a Lychee Martini, which is, happily, less sweet than many served in the capital, whilst my Espresso is thick and cool and served with three coffee beans. 

The menu includes several subsections, including Nigiri, Rolls, Sashimi, Uni lux,  Izakaya style, Salads, Tacos and even the Latin American Parilla and an Omakase option. A handful of different Sea urchin options include Risotto with Parmesan and chives, and an extravagant Sea urchin with caviar gunkan. We keep proceedings relatively simple and start with a handful of baby corn cobs and an Indian inspired Fatty tuna Pani Puri. The former comes with an appealing Tajin wasabi mayonnaise, which conveys the piquancy and flavour of the root vegetable but none of its brutal kick. The menu describes the latter as ‘make your own’, so that’s what we do. There are five small crispy baskets in which to add not only the exemplary tuna but a smoky and spicy paste, barbecued corn niblets and a mojo verde type dip. 

We cleanse our palate with a bold but refreshing Wasabi Caesar salad. It’s light and crispy and again, the wasabi doesn’t overpower. The truffle gnocchis are warming, the pecans caramelised and sweet and the radish slices zesty.

The sushi comes both as nigiri and maki. The seared Tuna nigiri disintegrates impressively, the Salmon is spruced up with a small dollop of cucumber paste, which almost overpowers the salmon and the Yellowtail is lightly basted in some kind of aniseed derivative for an unusual but winning nigiri. 

Buzzing from my Espresso Martini, I return to my original intention of trying something more in line with Uni’s aesthetic. ‘Sakura’ is Japanese for ‘cherry blossom’, so I opt for a Sakura Sour, which veers towards a pink colour, is frothy on top and decorated by a purple and yellow petal. Gin-based and with cherry blossom liquor, it’s light and refreshing and rather blissful, a liquid version of a bunch of pear drops. 

We share Chilean Sea Bass which is covered in a Miso and basil paste. Pad choi, chimichurri sauce in a wooden spoon and Gohan (white) rice sprinkled with furikake accompany. There’s no Black Cod on the menu so, chunky, tender and slick, the sea bass is undoubtedly a worthy competitor to Nobu’s sublime signature offering.

For dessert, the Mochi’s look tempting, but we finish with an extravagant off-piste option worthy of any of London’s finest patisseries. Layered with flavours and textures, green pistachio sponge is divided by a yellow Yuzu jelly and a creamy top. Striations of liquid chocolate decorate, and an egg-shaped, violet coloured ice cream vies for attention opposite.

Uni likes to consider itself a neighbourhood restaurant, but even if you don’t live in Belgravia, it’s definitely worth a visit. 

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Málaga is not short of places for a good breakfast, but a proper international-style brunch is still hard to find in the city. Carmen, the ground-floor restaurant at Only YOU Málaga, has filled that gap. The welcoming lobby dining space, with its signature long bar and glass doors that fold open to the terrace, allows you to feel connected to the life of the city even when you are sitting inside. On one side, the Plaza de la Marina. Carmen draws a good mix of hotel guests and locals, making it a buzzing venue for brunch.

How It Works

The set brunch includes an assortment of bread and butters, a matcha or coffee, a cocktail of the day or juice, and a yogurt with fruit and granola or an açaí bowl. You then choose a gourmet main dish. You can also order à la carte, as well as order sides like jamon, avocado, cheese etc. So its easier to fully personalise your experience.

What We Ate

It started with the bread and butters, served on a wooden table. There were three types, presented as little paired scoops, each just bigger than the head of a teaspoon. The goat’s cheese one was standout, and a tasty accompaniment to the selection of breads.

We had the açaí bowl and the yogurt and granola bowl, both good and we toasted the morning with a Bellini, fresh and delicate, and a classic mimosa.

The Wagyu burger was a gourmet version done properly, with tender, flavoursome meat, smoked cheddar, crispy bacon, soft lightly toasted brioche, and crisp fresh lettuce leaves. Very good. The Mollete Pedro Máximo was equally tasty, with aged beef tenderloin on a mollete with wood-roasted green pepper and fries. The mollete, for those unfamiliar, is the soft, white bread from Antequera and Archidona area, that has been the heart of the Andalusian breakfast for centuries, traditionally toasted and served with olive oil, tomato and serrano ham. This was a contemporary beef version of that classic, and it worked beautifully.

The Local Touch

What lifts the menu beyond a standard hotel brunch is the Andalusian thread that runs through it. The mollete bread from Benaoján. The Axarquía avocado in the croissant. The premium extra virgin olive oil with the broken eggs. The cheese and the Ibérico ham. Even the cocktail list has a local accent. These are international brunch dishes built on local ingredients.

Carmen is a relaxed, well-located room with a city buzz that makes weekend brunch feel like an occasion rather than a meal. If you are in Málaga on a Saturday or Sunday, it is well worth a visit.

You can read The Luxury Editor Review of Only You Malaga here.

Read The Luxury Editor’s guide to the best hotels in Málaga here.

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Pronounced “Tie”, Taigh is the Scottish Gaelic word for house. The name refers to the restored 19th-century steading on the Sleat Peninsula where the distillery operates, but also to the wider sense of place, community and belonging that shapes what is made there. It is, in the distillery’s words, about home in its broadest sense.

Torabhaig started distilling in 2017, becoming the first new distillery on Skye in 190 years. A team of nine local distillers, all trained on site, has been quietly building the distillery’s reputation through its Legacy Series releases. Taigh marks the next chapter: a whisky designed not as a limited edition but as a permanent statement of intent.

Created in small batches, the whisky is matured in first-fill and refill bourbon casks with the addition of Madeira casks, and bottled at 46% ABV with no chill-filtration or added colour. The cask combination is intended to showcase what Torabhaig describes as its Smoke with Taste philosophy, an elegant, balanced approach to peat where smoke enhances the flavour rather than overwhelming it. The first-fill bourbon barrels have always been central to the distillery’s style, while the Madeira component adds a softening roundness to the spirit.

On the nose, seaside embers and flint smoke sit alongside baked apple, maple syrup and raisin richness, with clove, cinnamon and a cereal biscuit edge in support. The palate is light to medium-bodied, with soft smoke wrapped in vanilla custard, toasted almond and sweet dried fruit on a smooth, oily texture. The finish brings toasted oak, red fruit and warming spice before settling into a gentle, persistent smokiness.

To mark the launch, Torabhaig has partnered with Scottish poet Iona Lee on a new body of work inspired by the distillery’s home on Sleat. The collaboration draws on landscape, language and belonging, themes closely tied to the distillery’s identity and location on the peninsula. Lee’s poetry will be shared through performances, film and editorial content over the coming months, extending the story of Taigh beyond the bottle.

Taigh is available now via their website.

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Orion by Alex Webb exudes an immediate, casual elegance. It’s much larger than it appears from the outside and stretches deep within. Next to the bar on the left is an iced seafood counter upon which catches of the day preen like beautiful momento mori. Beyond is a marble-topped chef’s table for six and then the open-plan kitchen which is only partially visible from our table. Dark sea green tiles intersperse walls and from one, the area delineated for private parties, hanging contemporary art proclaims ‘The World’s Your Oyster’. Greenery softens various edges while white table cloths match the ash floor. 

Our excellent waiter for the night, Will, who joined the restaurant before it opened, as it was being built, even, offers us menus and holds up a small blackboard with the day’s specials. Fish is sourced from the tips of Scotland to the outliers of Cornwall; Webb has many a fisherman’s number, knows most of their boat names and wheels and deals to bring in what he does. Sometimes portions come in only five or six so grab them while you can. Hake, Dover Sole and Chalk Stream Trout are on offer today. 

My friend’s Smoked Old Fashioned causes him to groan as if he’s been pleasurably punched. It’s certainly a heady and deeply satisfying cocktail and demands to be consumed in slow, appreciative sips. I opt for the most contrary option. The small, dry oyster shell on its rim offers a literal visual interpretation of the Oyster Shell Martini, but it’s also decorated with four green onion oil spots. My friend says it’s like drinking a bag of crisps (onion without the cheese, presumably), whereas the seawater is the first flavour I notice. So basically, it’s a seawater and onion vodka martini? Well…yes; it sounds ghastly like it should be illegal, but against all odds, it is a revelation; a sublimity that fuses ingredients to form a whole far greater than the sum of its parts.

Partially inspired by my martini’s name, we each order a Carlingford oyster as an hors d’oeuvre. The ritual of adding lemon, shallot vinegar and tabasco is always part of the fun. The oysters are plump and meaty and super clean. And, maybe, they taste a little like a Vodka Martini!?

Alex’s Signature Lobster & Prawn Toast isn’t called that for nothing; it was one of his standout dishes on Master Chef, apparently. And it’s easy to understand why. Proper sized bread slices with a fluffy, light, irresistible commingling of lobster with the more traditional prawn. Covered in black sesame seeds, it possesses a dramatic, volcanic drama and also comes with a sweet carrot purée. The toast is chopped in half so it’s very easy to share but frankly it’s one I’d happily keep all to myself. Will also recommends the Seabass Crudo, which comes in six 50 pence-sized chunks, each wrapped over itself. A buttermilk sauce with dil onion is poured at the table for a creamy and unusual but effective addition to what often comes with citrus. Small grapefruit chunks do add zest and, not mentioned on the menu, a bite-sized Seabass tartar accompanies. Wrapped in a thin, crispy wrapping, it possesses an appealing purity and could well be the posher, if more emaciated, cousin to a spring roll.

Will recommends a Camille & Laurent Schaller Chablis, which is crisp, dry and smooth and works perfectly with our shared John Dory. To put it bluntly, John Dory is not a looker. Served in its murky underwater skin and unboned, therefore, it looks scary, beastly, like a creature from a black lagoon. We don’t fancy our chances at skinning or boning without doing serious damage to ourselves or indeed, our meal, so we ask the kitchen to do it. Minutes later, a metamorphosis has occurred; the beast has become a beauty. Four large filets of white meat luxuriate in a champagne sauce peppered with orange and black trout roe. The meat is moist and delicate and has a pleasant char-grilled twang. Accompanying is another Webb signature, his Slow Cooked Butter Thyme Potatoes with Parmesan. The plural is misleading and we were expecting new potatoes but this single oblong offering bears more than a passing resemblance to a chunky fish finger. Crispy on the outside, light and fluffy within, it’s topped with parmesan shavings, is eminently moreish and any self-respecting diner will want to order more than one. 

I’m suddenly anxious as, out of the corner of my eye, I think I see a flame burning towards us. Turns out it’s a large swathe of gold leaf catching the light. And this, it turns out, is edible decoration for Alex’s Twix. ‘Bloody hell! The chocolate’s hard!’ My friend proclaims as he almost breaks the plate trying to cut the thing into mouth-sized portions. The shortbread is made of tonka beans, and we end up eating it with our fingers. The dish exudes childhood dreams, compounded as it is with ice cream sitting in a mound of what could be broken cornflakes. My Brown Butter Martini has nothing childlike about it at all, of course, but it’s a knock-out compliment to dessert and another unique martini. Butter is burnt for a softer caramel flavour and mixed into the top’s semi-solid froth for what is a delirious, end-of-night tipple. 

We could easily stay for another, but as the last diners, we don’t want to overstay our welcome. Back at reception, Webb offers his good-byes to the penultimate guests. After they leave, we have a lively chat with the tired but still bright and bubbly man and his charming husband. We discuss the arrival of the fresh garlic season, the couple’s plans to move from Acton to be much closer to the restaurant, the soon-to-go-live Chef’s Table and the fact that half the Wimbledon tennis players will undoubtedly drop in during the Championships. Only recently opened, Orion by Alex Webb is sure to become a firm favourite with international tennis players and all else who visit. Book now to avoid disappointment! 

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